Great site on how to repack a traditional stuffing box.
Bev, as for the size of the packing material, it depends on the diameter
of the prop shaft.....as the article stated, I used three strands of
3/16" flax on a 1" diameter shaft. However, mine does not drip at the
rate anywhere near where Russ has stated 'one drip per second at running
speed'.......mine drips about two drops per minute.
When I was repacking, I placed the three strands of flax into the
packing nut but then could not get it to thread.....if this happens to
you, tip....put two strands in first and compress them......open
everything up and then put the third one in and then the packing nut
should thread.
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2015-06-03 2:36 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:
Hi Rick & Bev,
Good advice, except the repack. Packing loads into the gland as
segments, not as a spiral wound. The direction of shaft rotation has
nothin' to do with it.
I found this very nice explanation to pass along. this guy does a
bang-up job of presenting this task. Pages 2 & 3 is most interesting.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box&page=1
<http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box%26page=1>
I suggest performing this task during a haulout and using the shaft
near the propeller as your packing segment cutting guide. It's a very
comfortable way to do it.
I didn't see it there but a properly adjusted stuffing box with flax &
lanolin packing (the common old timer's marine stuff), will drip once
per second at running speed and dry up when it cools.
        Cheers, Russ
        /Sweet /35 mk-1
Vancouver Island
At 08:52 PM 02/06/2015, you wrote:
HI Bev, I now have a dripless shaft, but in the past I have tweaked
these. ItâÂÂs not complex. If you donâÂÂt need new packing
you just tighten the gland to a point where it is weeping at the rate
you like. Channel locks or pipe wrench will do the trick. This is
not high stress wrenching but you need to tension the packing with
the first large nut, and then lock your tension with the second net
to snug. Too tight on the packing and it will heat up and eat the
packing pretty quickly, so the whole exercise is gentle and to be
happy with the rate of drip. If you tighten it down and the pace
continues, you may need new packing. If you pull your old packing out
a bit and snip some off to see what was used you should be able to
staunch the flow again. If you pull it all out the box will leak at
a high rate. Lots of folks have the new packing! Plan
accordingly. As I recall the new packing wraps in the opposite
direction as the forward prop spin (take a mental picture as you
pull the old packing out), enough to fill the gland then tighten
gently to the point the drip slows, stops or is very small. Keep an
eye on it and tighten accordingly. It will break in eventually and
will remain static possibly for years.  I wish I were in Vancouver
as I would drop in and fix it, for a couple of pints. Of course in
Canada it may be cheaper to hire a top notch mechanic than buy me a
couple of beers. lol
It sounds like you are worried about it, and rightly so as the
relentless dripping adds up in the bilge. It is not a huge problem
though and someone on the net will chime in and come give you a
hand. Great folks in BC on C&C and other fine vessels.Â
Cheers
Rick Rohwer]
C&C 37+ Paikea
Poulsbo, WA
On Jun 2, 2015, at 8:21 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
What is the size of nuts on the stuffing box shaft? What size is the
packing? Does anyone know of a gnome or elf available for hire in
Vancouver to tighten the same?
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