Here’s the instruction book I was looking at that refers to the UV tape: 
http://www.bluemoment.com/downloads/sikaflexmarinehandbook.pdf

Page 16 and 17. Actually they have 2 diagrams ... one with the UV tape just 
over the window portion and one having it overlap the surrounding frame area. 
Go figure! I think I’ve seen a reference somewhere else to using a ‘UV 
resistant paint’ on the exterior of the windows (but not over the expansion 
gap) .... but I’m not sure what paint that would be.

It appears for the fiberglass rebate they want you to:

1) abrade
2) clean with Sika 205
3) prime with Sika 206 G+P or Sika 215

And for the windows they want you to:

1) abrade
2) clean with Sika 205
2) prime with Sika 209

So different primers for fiberglass and the windows.

For an aluminum hatch frame they want you to:

1) abrade (scotchbrite in this case)
2) clean with Sika 205
3) prime with Sika 210T

So yet another primer for aluminum.

I think it’s been mentioned previously but alcohol must not come in contact 
with the 295UV during the curing process – it interferes with it.

There’s also a Sika Tooling Agent N for smoothing out the expansion joint bead 
and Sika Remover 208 (not the cleaner 205) for clean-up.

I’m assuming, as others have said, that bracing during cure is done typically 
with screws and washers around the perimeter with spacers behind  ... or, I 
would think as a less preferable option, holes drilled in the windows with 
screws and washers and you remove all that prior to filling the expansion gap 
(and any holes) ... which means using the black 295UV.


From: robert via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2015 5:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Forward hatches on the 1981 C&C30 MK1

In 2009, we replaced our side cabin windows.....used Sika 295 UV and Sika 
Primer......never heard of 'Sika UV Shielding Tape'.   When you apply the Sika 
Primer to the new windows and the gelcoat, you should understand why it is 
highly recommended......it 'bites' into surfaces you apply it to.  I used a 
1/2" painter's brush to apply the Primer and you could feel the 'resistance' as 
you dragged it along the surface(s).
I taped everything, inside and outside, and applied 'more' rather than 'less' 
Sika 295UV so that when the windows were fitted into their slots, there was 
adhesive oozing out all around.....especially onthe outside.  And I never used 
'spacers'.....I bought them but decided at the last moment not to use 
them.....I felt they might be a weak point.  I let the Sika cure for 3 days 
before I disturbed anything......the extra adhesive that oozed out was easily 
trimmed off with a razor blade.
One tip.......as soon as you install a window and have it secured in place, 
remove the tape before the Sika cures.  If the adhesive cures before you remove 
the tape, you will make the job much more difficult.

As for gaskets, I replaced all of my hatch gaskets.....obtained them from 
Hammerhead....the guy there used to work for A&H.....very knowledgeable......I 
talked to him on the phone....I said I needed 3/4" D-shaped gaskets......he 
said I needed 1/2" D-shaped gaskets.....he was right, 1/2" was the perfect size 
and he sent me a tube of caulking I didn't ask for but was grateful for getting.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2015-02-26 9:00 AM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List wrote:

  I use the Sika primer, as it is “highly recommended” to ensure a good seal.  
Yes, it’s expensive, but I hate doing a job twice.  A bottle of primer goes a 
long way.  Sika recommends that the edges of the window be painted over where 
the sealant is used.  This is because exposure to light degrades the adhesive.  
I’m assuming this would be UV exposure.  To date, I have not done this and have 
had zero problems.  It could cause premature failure of the seal in the long 
term though.

   

  I use a dremel tool with a sanding drum to rough up the edges of the windows 
before installing them.  I give the material some tooth, then wipe it down with 
alcohol to remove any contamination.  Don’t be afraid to grind into the plexi 
to get a good surface for the adhesive.  It won’t show from the outside.

   

  Jake

   

  Jake Brodersen

  “Midnight Mistress”

  C&C 35 Mk-III

  Hampton VA



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