Putting kiwigrip on my deck this spring is on my list. I've read and heard so many good things, and the YouTube videos look like it's not a difficult boat job to get a really nice finish with. Here's my question: My hull has never been painted, she has the original "white" gelcoat and it buffs up nicely and has a good shine when that happens. There are a few dinks on the hull that keep her from looking pristine: 2 on the bow from dock landings, a couple on the sides when practicing backing in a current, blah blah. I'd prefer to pay someone to get these places back to looking original than learning gelcoat repair myself and really screw it up. Would a good boat yard that paints boats be able to spray gelcoat and match it? I've read the matching is the hard part? Would said yard have to spray the entire hull or just the few dinks? If they have to spray the entire hull for it to look good, would it be better to just have the hull painted? Why do boats get painted rather than leave them original gelcoat since gelcoat can be colored when the boat is manufactured? Thanks for your input.
Barbara H. Fellers > On Feb 27, 2015, at 6:45 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: > > Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to > cnc-list@cnc-list.com > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com > > You can reach the person managing the list at > cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Non-Slip (Paul Hood) > 2. Re: cockpit drains freezing (robert) > 3. Re: cockpit drains freezing (John Pennie) > 4. Re: Starting Battery (Rick Brass) > 5. Re: cockpit drains freezing (Rick Brass) > 6. Re: Non-Slip (Jim Watts) > 7. Re: Non-Slip (Russ & Melody) > 8. Re: Non-Slip (Chuck S) > 9. Re: Need Recommendation for Tool to remove balsa core from > drilled hole (Chuck S) > 10. Re: Non-Slip (Danny Haughey) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2015 20:48:58 -0500 > From: "Paul Hood" <paul.h...@rogers.com> > To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Stus-List Non-Slip > Message-ID: <008901d0522f$8df6b2c0$a9e41840$@rogers.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > I was wondering if anyone has ever ventured to do the following project that > I'm working through. I bought my boat from the original owner 2 years ago > and am in the middle of redoing my non-slip. > > > > I have removed all deck hardware with the exception of the toe rail, sanded > down the existing non-slip so that all is smooth and am preparing to spray > gelcoat over the entire deck. Once sprayed smooth, I will tape off areas > for pattern and spread a layer of gelcoat followed immediately by the > pressing of the Gibco flex mould to create the non-slip. > > > > www.gibcoflexmold.com <http://www.gibcoflexmold.com> > > > > I know this is different than the original roll-on finish, but I think the > Gibco wears better, is easier to clean, is easier on bear skin, and looks > much better to boot. My hope is that the grip is better than rolled as it > is more consistent throughout. There are dozens of patterns and since I'm > not matching, I'm getting the one claiming to have the best grip. It will > be definitely better than current as the surface is chalked throughout and > worn in many areas. In addition, there was a deck repair some years back > and the color is visibly different and the surface below the non-slip repair > is thin and almost see through. > > > > I'm waiting for this months -20c temperatures to move out before I start > heating and spraying surface. Canadian winters.. > > > > Has anyone ever tackled such a project and if so, do you have any hints. > I'm sure there are lots of opinions here and I know I'm about to open the > can of worms on many levels but I'd like to hear what you think. > > > > Thanks, > > Paul Hood > > 1982 C&C34 > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150226/1aaf139c/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2015 21:56:41 -0400 > From: robert <robertabb...@eastlink.ca> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drains freezing > Message-ID: <54efced9.3060...@eastlink.ca> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; Format="flowed" > > Tom: > > You said it " So.. the crew did a lousy job with the shrinkwrap". > > Get an experienced/qualified tradesman. > > Rob Abbott > AZURA > C&C 32 - 84 > Halifax, N.S. > >> On 2015-02-26 9:24 PM, Tom Lochhaas via CnC-List wrote: >> Here's my sad story of a cockpit drain hose freezing 11 years ago, the >> first winter in New England after I bought my Landfall 38. I had it >> "professionally" shrinkwrapped and asked the wrappers not to go too >> before below the toe rail because I'd heard the film could stick to >> the Awlgrip hull paint. The day before they wrapped, I ran antifreeze >> through all drains in case there were low spots. So.. the crew did a >> lousy job with the shrinkwrap, the "hem" of which was too loose and >> high and let snow and freezing rain blow into the cockpit all winter. >> New to the boat, I didn't worry come spring, but after launching found >> my bilge filling and the pump running. The water the shrinkwrappers >> had let into the cockpit displaced my antifreeze in a low spot in the >> hose, which froze and burst the hose (below the waterline) - I'm just >> glad I discovered it on my mooring after launching and had a >> functioning seacock, or I'd have wondered where the boat was when I >> next time dinghied out to the mooring. (Worst part was it was really >> hard to run that thick, inflexible replacement hose down beside the >> engine.) The next year, I got together with some other guys, bought a >> heat gun, and we've shrinkwrapped our own boats every year since at a >> small fraction of the cost - and I've never had water ingress again. >> Lesson learned. >> >> Tom Lochhaas >> C&C Landfall 38 >> Newburyport, MA 01950 >> >> >>> *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On >>> Behalf Of *mike amirault via CnC-List >>> *Sent:* Monday, February 23, 2015 7:09 PM >>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >>> *Subject:* Stus-List cockpit drains freezing >>> >>> NS has seen many freeze thaw cycles this winter. After a >>> fairly substantial rainfall this weekend, I found the bilge >>> on my C&C 33mkii was full to the top. This seemed like too >>> much water to have run down the mast so I investigated and >>> found that one of the hoses on my cockpit drains was frozen >>> solid and popped the hose off the barbs of the drain. My boat >>> is not covered at this time(tarp was sagging too much) so >>> there is a lot of water in the cockpit. I'm thinking there >>> may be a low spot in the hose causing water to freeze there >>> rather than draining. The drains on my C&C are criss-crossed, >>> i.e., port drainst to stbd, &stbd to port. Just wondering how >>> other owners in a freezing climate deal with this issue? >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom >> of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150226/b61b6b29/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2015 21:10:33 -0500 > From: John Pennie <j...@svpaws.net> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drains freezing > Message-ID: <1754a927-4969-4f8b-aab0-897d9713b...@svpaws.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > That used to be one of the best party weekends when we lived aboard. We > usually had 4-5 boats wrapping at the same time. One boat owned the > gun/torch/flame thrower and the rest would provide the propane and > refreshments. We usually did a group order for the wrap to lower the price > somewhat. Amazing how creative folks would get on doors. Good times. > > John > > > >> On Feb 26, 2015, at 8:24 PM, Tom Lochhaas via CnC-List >> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> Here's my sad story of a cockpit drain hose freezing 11 years ago, the first >> winter in New England after I bought my Landfall 38. I had it >> "professionally" shrinkwrapped and asked the wrappers not to go too before >> below the toe rail because I'd heard the film could stick to the Awlgrip >> hull paint. The day before they wrapped, I ran antifreeze through all drains >> in case there were low spots. So.. the crew did a lousy job with the >> shrinkwrap, the "hem" of which was too loose and high and let snow and >> freezing rain blow into the cockpit all winter. New to the boat, I didn't >> worry come spring, but after launching found my bilge filling and the pump >> running. The water the shrinkwrappers had let into the cockpit displaced my >> antifreeze in a low spot in the hose, which froze and burst the hose (below >> the waterline) - I'm just glad I discovered it on my mooring after launching >> and had a functioning seacock, or I'd have wondered where the boat was when >> I next time dinghied out to the moor ing. (Worst part was it was really hard to run that thick, inflexible replacement hose down beside the engine.) The next year, I got together with some other guys, bought a heat gun, and we've shrinkwrapped our own boats every year since at a small fraction of the cost - and I've never had water ingress again. Lesson learned. >> >> Tom Lochhaas >> C&C Landfall 38 >> Newburyport, MA 01950 >> >> >>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of mike >>> amirault via CnC-List >>> Sent: Monday, February 23, 2015 7:09 PM >>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>> Subject: Stus-List cockpit drains freezing >>> >>> >>> NS has seen many freeze thaw cycles this winter. After a fairly substantial >>> rainfall this weekend, I found the bilge on my C&C 33mkii was full to the >>> top. This seemed like too much water to have run down the mast so I >>> investigated and found that one of the hoses on my cockpit drains was >>> frozen solid and popped the hose off the barbs of the drain. My boat is not >>> covered at this time(tarp was sagging too much) so there is a lot of water >>> in the cockpit. I'm thinking there may be a low spot in the hose causing >>> water to freeze there rather than draining. The drains on my C&C are >>> criss-crossed, i.e., port drainst to stbd, &stbd to port. Just wondering >>> how other owners in a freezing climate deal with this issue? >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom >> of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150226/323c9489/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2015 21:28:16 -0500 > From: "Rick Brass" <rickbr...@earthlink.net> > To: "'Josh Muckley'" <muckl...@gmail.com>, <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting Battery > Message-ID: <006b01d05235$0b8d5360$22a7fa20$@earthlink.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Josh; > > > > What you say is correct. Here is some amplification: > > > > For a given battery chemistry, the capacity of the battery is proportional > to the weight of material in it. For a lead-acid battery that means more > lead, more capacity. > > > > Basic Amp Hour ratings for deep cycle and marine batteries are published > using a 20 amp discharge rate because that is an industry standard. > Similarly Reserve Capacity ratings for automotive batteries are always for > 25 amp currents. Some manufacturers publish capacity number in addition to > the standard 20 amp rate. > > > > As far as Amp Hour capacity goes, the lower the current draw, the longer the > battery will deliver that current. But it would not be a straight line on a > graph of current vs. time. So a battery delivering 5 amps (typical for one > of our boats) may well deliver 5 amps for significantly longer than the > published AH rating divided by 5. > > > > There really is no relationship between Amp Hour capacity and cranking amps. > For a given weight of lead, the more surface area in the plates (more and > thinner, plus some refinements for conductor length and shape) the higher > the cranking amps. The thicker and fewer the plate, the lower the cranking > amps and the longer the battery will deliver lower current flow (Reserve > Capacity). But a given weight of lead can only produce a given amount of > free electrons, so the tradeoff is between cranking amps and reserve, not > Amp Hour, capacity. > > > > An automotive starting battery has more thin plates, and is less suitable > for the environment of a boat with vibration and deeper discharge cycles. > Conversely, a deep cycle battery has fewer thick plate to deliver lower > current for a long time. > > > > A marine start battery is sort of a compromise between the two, in an > attempt to provide a happy medium between the two, and really is most > desirable for inboard V8 applications in smaller powerboats. Remember that > we don't usually try to start our boats at below freezing temperatures, so > high CCA isn't generally needed. For that reason, the standard for marine > cranking amps is determined at a higher temperature than CCA and the two > ratings are not comparable. > > > > For the engines in our boats, delivering 200 amps or so to the starter is > well within the capability of just about any deep cycle or marine starting > battery, and will result in more durability and battery life and in longer > hours on the hook between engine use. If your need lighter weight or smaller > batteries for racing or day sailing, go with a smaller marine start battery > like a group 24. > > > > Rick Brass > > > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh > Muckley via CnC-List > Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2015 9:49 PM > To: C&C List; Edd Schillay > Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting Battery > > > > I checked my Yanmar manual and it looks like it calls for a 100 Ahr battery > for my 3 cyl 35hp diesel. > > So now you ask yourself, how do I compare CCA to Ahrs. The short answer is, > you don't. > > CCA is a bit arbitrary but to achieve higher CCA in the same size you have > to have more and thinner plates. This makes them more fragile and decreases > their ability to be deaply discharged as well as survive vibration and > uncovering. If you seek higher CCA exclusively then you will find a battery > which is less suited for a marine environment. > > AHrs is a less arbitrary spec but still a small bit of fuzzy math since C/20 > = 100 and C/10 = 80 and C/1 = 60 could all be Ahr ratings for the same > battery. Most manufacturers provide their rating based on C/20. > Ultimately, the best batteries (regarless of all other ratings) are the ones > which are heaviest. These will have the most lead and subsequently the > strongest plates. They will usually also be at the top end of the Ahr > ratings but not the highest CCA (if those ratings are even mutually > present). > > Disregard CA and RC ratings. > > A sufficiently large deep cycle battery is better than a smaller, lighter, > starting battery. > > The weight is only an accurate comparison if the chemistry is the same. > > Josh > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150226/fabde7e7/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2015 21:40:57 -0500 > From: "Rick Brass" <rickbr...@earthlink.net> > To: "'Tom Lochhaas'" <toml...@gmail.com>, <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drains freezing > Message-ID: <007001d05236$d0eeb1c0$72cc1540$@earthlink.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Another thing you should change is your yard, if you use the same yard for > winter storage. Part of the process for launching, before the Travel Lift > straps are removed from under the boat, should be to go below to check for > leaks and to ?burp? the shaft seal if that is needed. > > > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom > Lochhaas via CnC-List > Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2015 8:25 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drains freezing > > > > Here's my sad story of a cockpit drain hose freezing 11 years ago, the first > winter in New England after I bought my Landfall 38. I had it > "professionally" shrinkwrapped and asked the wrappers not to go too before > below the toe rail because I'd heard the film could stick to the Awlgrip hull > paint. The day before they wrapped, I ran antifreeze through all drains in > case there were low spots. So.. the crew did a lousy job with the shrinkwrap, > the "hem" of which was too loose and high and let snow and freezing rain blow > into the cockpit all winter. New to the boat, I didn't worry come spring, but > after launching found my bilge filling and the pump running. The water the > shrinkwrappers had let into the cockpit displaced my antifreeze in a low spot > in the hose, which froze and burst the hose (below the waterline) - I'm just > glad I discovered it on my mooring after launching and had a functioning > seacock, or I'd have wondered where the boat was when I next time dinghied > out to the moori ng. (Worst part was it was really hard to run that thick, inflexible replacement hose down beside the engine.) The next year, I got together with some other guys, bought a heat gun, and we've shrinkwrapped our own boats every year since at a small fraction of the cost - and I've never had water ingress again. Lesson learned. > > > > > Tom Lochhaas > > C&C Landfall 38 > > Newburyport, MA 01950 > > > > > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of mike > amirault via CnC-List > Sent: Monday, February 23, 2015 7:09 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Stus-List cockpit drains freezing > > > > NS has seen many freeze thaw cycles this winter. After a fairly substantial > rainfall this weekend, I found the bilge on my C&C 33mkii was full to the > top. This seemed like too much water to have run down the mast so I > investigated and found that one of the hoses on my cockpit drains was frozen > solid and popped the hose off the barbs of the drain. My boat is not covered > at this time(tarp was sagging too much) so there is a lot of water in the > cockpit. I'm thinking there may be a low spot in the hose causing water to > freeze there rather than draining. The drains on my C&C are criss-crossed, > i.e., port drainst to stbd, &stbd to port. Just wondering how other owners in > a freezing climate deal with this issue? > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150226/88076659/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2015 21:31:40 -0800 > From: Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com> > To: Paul Hood <paul.h...@rogers.com>, 1 CnC List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Non-Slip > Message-ID: > <ca+jz0ffy6laxzewgocbgwhucjokeh98ho0aizm3-oowliun...@mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I have one word. Kiwi Grip. > > OK, it's two. Sue me. Pressing a mold into rapidly curing gelcoat sounds > like an incredibly painful thing to do to yourself. > > Jim Watts > Paradigm Shift > C&C 35 Mk III > Victoria, BC > > On 26 February 2015 at 17:48, Paul Hood via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > >> I was wondering if anyone has ever ventured to do the following project >> that I?m working through. I bought my boat from the original owner 2 years >> ago and am in the middle of redoing my non-slip. >> >> >> >> I have removed all deck hardware with the exception of the toe rail, >> sanded down the existing non-slip so that all is smooth and am preparing to >> spray gelcoat over the entire deck. Once sprayed smooth, I will tape off >> areas for pattern and spread a layer of gelcoat followed immediately by the >> pressing of the Gibco flex mould to create the non-slip. >> >> >> >> www.gibcoflexmold.com >> >> >> >> I know this is different than the original roll-on finish, but I think the >> Gibco wears better, is easier to clean, is easier on bear skin, and looks >> much better to boot. My hope is that the grip is better than rolled as it >> is more consistent throughout. There are dozens of patterns and since I?m >> not matching, I?m getting the one claiming to have the best grip. It will >> be definitely better than current as the surface is chalked throughout and >> worn in many areas. In addition, there was a deck repair some years back >> and the color is visibly different and the surface below the non-slip >> repair is thin and almost see through. >> >> >> >> I?m waiting for this months -20c temperatures to move out before I start >> heating and spraying surface. Canadian winters?. >> >> >> >> Has anyone ever tackled such a project and if so, do you have any hints. >> I?m sure there are lots of opinions here and I know I?m about to open the >> can of worms on many levels but I?d like to hear what you think. >> >> >> >> Thanks, >> >> Paul Hood >> >> 1982 C&C34 >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the >> bottom of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150226/72de529d/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2015 22:20:11 -0800 > From: Russ & Melody <russ...@telus.net> > To: Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com>,cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List Non-Slip > Message-ID: > <mailman.71.1425037543.30285.cnc-list_cnc-list....@cnc-list.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed" > > > Damn. > > The plan did seem a bit risky but I was looking > forward to hear how it turned out. > > Cheers, Russ > Sweet 35 mk-1 > > At 09:31 PM 26/02/2015, you wrote: >> I have one word. Kiwi Grip. >> >> OK, it's two. Sue me. Pressing a mold into >> rapidly curing gelcoat sounds like an incredibly >> painful thing to do to yourself. >> >> Jim Watts >> Paradigm Shift >> C&C 35 Mk III >> Victoria, BC >> >> On 26 February 2015 at 17:48, Paul Hood via >> CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> I was wondering if anyone has ever ventured to >> do the following project that I???m working >> through. I bought my boat from the original >> owner 2 years ago and am in the middle of redoing my non-slip. >> >> ? >> >> I have removed all deck hardware with the >> exception of the toe rail, sanded down the >> existing non-slip so that all is smooth and am >> preparing to spray gelcoat over the entire >> deck.? Once sprayed smooth, I will tape off >> areas for pattern and spread a layer of gelcoat >> followed immediately by the pressing of the >> Gibco flex mould to create the non-slip. >> >> ? >> >> <http://www.gibcoflexmold.com>www.gibcoflexmold.com >> >> ? >> >> I know this is different than the original >> roll-on finish, but I think the Gibco wears >> better, is easier to clean, is easier on bear >> skin, and looks much better to boot.? My hope >> is that the grip is better than rolled as it is >> more consistent throughout.? There are dozens >> of patterns and since I???m not matching, I???m >> getting the one claiming to have the best >> grip.? It will be definitely better than >> current as the surface is chalked throughout and >> worn in many areas.? In addition, there was a >> deck repair some years back and the color is >> visibly different and the surface below the >> non-slip repair is thin and almost see through.? >> >> ? >> >> I???m waiting for this months -20c temperatures >> to move out before I start heating and spraying surface.? Canadian winters?. >> >> ? >> >> Has anyone ever tackled such a project and if >> so, do you have any hints.? I???m sure there >> are lots of opinions here and I know I???m about >> to open the can of worms on many levels but I???d like to hear what you >> think. >> >> ? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Paul Hood >> >> 1982 C&C34 >> >> ? >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including >> unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: >> <http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including >> unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150226/dc2f0b86/attachment.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 8 > Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2015 09:29:01 +0000 (UTC) > From: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> > To: Paul Hood <paul.h...@rogers.com>, "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Non-Slip > Message-ID: > <813096364.20611.1425029341795.javamail.zim...@comcast.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I like the Kiwi Grip method. Plan to do mine this year or next. > > > Chuck > Resolute > 1990 C&C 34R > Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Paul Hood via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2015 8:48:58 PM > Subject: Stus-List Non-Slip > > > > I was wondering if anyone has ever ventured to do the following project that > I?m working through. I bought my boat from the original owner 2 years ago and > am in the middle of redoing my non-slip. > > > > I have removed all deck hardware with the exception of the toe rail, sanded > down the existing non-slip so that all is smooth and am preparing to spray > gelcoat over the entire deck. Once sprayed smooth, I will tape off areas for > pattern and spread a layer of gelcoat followed immediately by the pressing of > the Gibco flex mould to create the non-slip. > > > > www.gibcoflexmold.com > > > > I know this is different than the original roll-on finish, but I think the > Gibco wears better, is easier to clean, is easier on bear skin, and looks > much better to boot. My hope is that the grip is better than rolled as it is > more consistent throughout. There are dozens of patterns and since I?m not > matching, I?m getting the one claiming to have the best grip. It will be > definitely better than current as the surface is chalked throughout and worn > in many areas. In addition, there was a deck repair some years back and the > color is visibly different and the surface below the non-slip repair is thin > and almost see through. > > > > I?m waiting for this months -20c temperatures to move out before I start > heating and spraying surface. Canadian winters?. > > > > Has anyone ever tackled such a project and if so, do you have any hints. I?m > sure there are lots of opinions here and I know I?m about to open the can of > worms on many levels but I?d like to hear what you think. > > > > Thanks, > > Paul Hood > > 1982 C&C34 > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150227/59c64313/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 9 > Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2015 10:18:09 +0000 (UTC) > From: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> > To: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>, "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Need Recommendation for Tool to remove balsa > core from drilled hole > Message-ID: > <378135771.29696.1425032289976.javamail.zim...@comcast.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I found that clear mailing tape works well to cover the bottom of the hole. > Bend the end over to help removal later. > A shop vac for removing the core is essential. > West Systems has a nice booklet and videos that explain proper technigues. > > West suggests wetting the inside of any hole; core and skins with unthickened > epoxy first. > I start with about 3 or 4 pumps of resin and hardener in a plastic cup > (Dollar Store throw aways). I mix thoroughly with an acid brush, for well > over 1 minute, wet out the holes, then I add 404 High Density filler to the > cup mixing until it is like mayonaise or peanut butter, and fill the holes > using the brush to push it into any voids in the core. One problem with West > is the amine blush that forms when it cures, and requires grinding before > adding another layer. Scrubbing with a good 3M pad removes it easiest if the > surface isn't too rough. Don't wet out more holes than you have prepaired > filler. You can keep adding more epoxy/filler as long as the first is still > reacting, is in gel form and hasn't cured hard. Once it is hard, you need to > grind off the amine blush to get a good bond. > > Also, in warmer weather, if your cup of epoxy starts to overheat, you can set > it in a shallow pan of water to slow down the reaction, and prevent a fire. > In colder weather, I like to have a heat gun handy to warm the surface before > applying and to warm the epoxy to get it to kick. I also use a heat lamp to > keep heat on an area to be sure it will cure thoroughly. I don't like to > epoxy anything if the temp of the substrate is below 40 or above 80. > > > Chuck > Resolute > 1990 C&C 34R > Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>. > To: "kelly petew" <kellype...@msn.com>, "C&C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2015 12:11:14 PM > Subject: Re: Stus-List Need Recommendation for Tool to remove balsa core from > drilled hole > > > > I just did this for my new stainless steel handrails. I didn't have real good > luck with a bent nail so I tried various sizes of allen wrench. I found that > a 3/16th or 1/8th inch drill bit through 3/8th holes at various angles worked > best. I shop-vaced the chips out. After that you'll have better luck > finishing up the hole with anballen wrench. > > If these are new holes, you might try to avoid drilling through the bottom > skin. Otherwise you'll have to tape or plug the bottom hole when you go to > fill with epoxy. I wet out the hole with clear penitrating epoxy and then > fill in stages with thickend epoxy. If you drill through the bottom layer you > can use masking tape to plug it, then a drop or two of 10 minute epoxy in the > void to seal it. That way none of the CPE or thickened epoxy leaks out. > > I was filling the holes in 40-50?F weather so I used the fast hardening > agent. In a large flat area this would have been fine but since some of my > voids were close to 3 or 4 Tbsp (or 45-60ml) this caused a thermal run away > in some of the holes. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > On Feb 26, 2015 11:44 AM, "kelly petew via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > > wrote: > > > > I want to remove balsa core from some drilled holes and replace it with > epoxy. I've heard that a bent nail inserted into an electric drill works. But > I wonder if there is a tool designed specifically to do this job. > > Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. > > Pete W. > > Siren Song > C&C 30-2 > Deltaville, VA > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150227/9a55c7c1/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 10 > Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2015 06:45:03 -0500 > From: Danny Haughey <djhaug...@juno.com> > To: cscheaf...@comcast.net, cnc-list@cnc-list.com, > paul.h...@rogers.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List Non-Slip > Message-ID: <habcqkmph3pdil67sefofvwc.1425037503...@email.android.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I sprayed gel coat on my o'day 22 after a repair along the toe rail. ?Of > course the toe rail was just short pieces of teak and rub rail was the > flexible 2 piece black and white stuff. > > Anyway I removed all the hardware filled cracks, repaired some fiberglass, > prepped and sprayed just up to the non skid. So, I have no insights there. > ?However, if you're going to spray gel coat, practice practice practice is > very different than paint. ?Mine looked okay but, let's just say, it was a > very textured finish and I'm not sure I would try and tackle it again. ?The > repairs and the prep, yes, spreading I would leave to a pro. ?I saw what a > pro could do on another guys cat boat and man did that ever look great! > > Danny > > > From my Android phone > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Chuck S via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Date: 02/27/2015 4:29 AM (GMT-05:00) > To: Paul Hood <paul.h...@rogers.com>,"CNC boat owners, cnc-list" > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Non-Slip > > I like the Kiwi Grip method.? Plan to do mine this year or next. > > > Chuck > Resolute > 1990 C&C 34R > Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md > > From: "Paul Hood via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2015 8:48:58 PM > Subject: Stus-List Non-Slip > > I was wondering if anyone has ever ventured to do the following project that > I?m working through. I bought my boat from the original owner 2 years ago and > am in the middle of redoing my non-slip. > ? > I have removed all deck hardware with the exception of the toe rail, sanded > down the existing non-slip so that all is smooth and am preparing to spray > gelcoat over the entire deck.? Once sprayed smooth, I will tape off areas for > pattern and spread a layer of gelcoat followed immediately by the pressing of > the Gibco flex mould to create the non-slip. > ? > www.gibcoflexmold.com > ? > I know this is different than the original roll-on finish, but I think the > Gibco wears better, is easier to clean, is easier on bear skin, and looks > much better to boot.? My hope is that the grip is better than rolled as it is > more consistent throughout.? There are dozens of patterns and since I?m not > matching, I?m getting the one claiming to have the best grip.? It will be > definitely better than current as the surface is chalked throughout and worn > in many areas.? In addition, there was a deck repair some years back and the > color is visibly different and the surface below the non-slip repair is thin > and almost see through.? > ? > I?m waiting for this months -20c temperatures to move out before I start > heating and spraying surface.? Canadian winters?. > ? > Has anyone ever tackled such a project and if so, do you have any hints.? I?m > sure there are lots of opinions here and I know I?m about to open the can of > worms on many levels but I?d like to hear what you think. > ? > Thanks, > Paul Hood > 1982 C&C34 > ? > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150227/37a4bad1/attachment.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > CnC-List mailing list > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > ------------------------------ > > End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 109, Issue 74 > ***************************************** _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
