Yea and I have the 675M81e

On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 8:22 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> They changed to frameless in 1979 on the 30-1
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Gary
> Nylander via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 23, 2014 5:09 PM
> *To:* Della Barba, Joe; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C30MK1 windows and hatch replacements
>
>
>
> The earliest ones did, but they changed to the glued ones sometime in the
> late '70's.
>
> Gary
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> *From:* Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 23, 2014 3:54 PM
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C30MK1 windows and hatch replacements
>
>
>
> Doesn't the 30 MK I have the same aluminum frame ports the 35 MK I has?
>
> Those are pretty easy to DIY.
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> *Coquina*
>
> *C&C 35 MK I*
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] *On Behalf Of *Dr. Mark Bodnar via
> CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 23, 2014 1:28 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C30MK1 windows and hatch replacements
>
>
>
>
> I've done a bunch of reading on this topic as my windows are cracked and
> need replacement.
> I don't have any experience actually doing it.... but I've read multiple
> different techniques -- so my comments should be taken with a grain (or
> bag) of salt!  Nest year I may be able to speak from experience.
>
> I remember one discussion on the problem with adhesives was that the
> acrylic expands and contracts at different rates than the boat (or does not
> match boat flexing) and that most people put too thin a layer of adhesive -
> which could not absorb the movement.
> The recommended solution was to use double sided tape to keep the acrylic
> a couple millimeters off the gelcoat - then squeeze the adhesive caulk in
> around the edges for the water proofing.  With more thickness there is more
> ability to absorb the different motions.
>
> Mark
>
>
>
>
>
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>
>   - George Santayana
>
> On 23/09/2014 12:42 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List wrote:
>
> A few years ago I lightly ran a cutting knife around the outside edge of
> the 30-year glued windows, went inside and hit each one once, moderately,
> with my fist. Every one popped right out. No gelcoat damage, but scarily
> easy....
>
>
>
> Did the cast acrylic/plexus routine, was happy with nice new ports except
> for the not so pretty glue line showing through #2404 bronze 3/8", but then
> this year the large window started leaking again. Broken-hearted would
> cover it.
>
>
>
> One of several reasons we're currently closing on a boat with Lewmar ports.
>
>
>
> Nate
>
> "Sarah Jean"
> 1980 30-1
>
> Siskiwit Bay Marina
>
> Lake Superior
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 7:54 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Curtis, be very careful when taking the old ones out. They are glued in
> with some powerful stuff and you stand a good chance of chipping the
> gelcoat around the windows (don't ask me how I know). You may want to try a
> dremel or one of those vibrating side cutters (Fein tool?).
>
>
>
> Then you have to clean up the area where the adhesive was - it was
> probably laid on pretty thick and is another dremel job - again - care.
>
>
>
> Some folks use a special adhesive called Plexus, which is a two part glue
> and needs a special gun for application. The windows are bonded into the
> side of the cabin and are part of the structure. You have to hold them in
> place (they are slightly bent to match the curve of your cabin). Or you can
> use Sikaflex 295, which requires a cleaner, a primer (mandatory!!!) and the
> adhesive. Don't get creative and try anything else, there are probably 100
> war stories about folks who have experimented and then got the opportunity
> to do it right the next year.
>
>
>
> Search through the archives on the site - most of the late '70's and later
> original C&C's had glued in windows and there are a lot of threads on this
> repair. It is doable but not trivial. Jake had a pretty good description if
> I remember correctly.
>
>
>
> Gary Nylander
>
> (Been there with moderate success)
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> *From:* Curtis via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>
> *To:* CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 23, 2014 8:21 AM
>
> *Subject:* Stus-List C&C30MK1 windows and hatch replacements
>
>
>
> Good morning,
>
> I'm thinking of a winter project to replace the cabin side windows with
> something stronger and nice. Has anybody undergone this project that could
> share their process and maybe some photos ? Do I just cut them out with a
> razor knife and take them to a lexan shop and have them duplicate them in a
> lighter color?  Is there a framed in type? I have been stopping leaks in
> them windows sense I got the boat?
>
>
>
> I also want to rebuild the forward hatch and need something strong and
> that lets in more light. I need to know if the gasket around the inside is
> replaceable? Mine is cracking up and needs to be replaced. all-tho  the
> leaking looks to be the caulking of the class itself to the frame.
>
>
>
> If you can share some in-depth details on how the two mentioned projects
> are to be completed I would be very thankful.
>
> I am very good at DIY projects and could do this project without imput. It
> is so much nicer hearing from people that have done it.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *Best regards,*
>
> *Curtis*
>
> *C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*
>
> *Port Royal,*
>
> *South Carolina*
>
> *cpt.b...@gmail.com <bobhick...@rogers.com>*
>
>
>
> *~~~~ __/) ~~~~*
>
> .
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-- 

*Best regards,*


*Curtis McDaniel, *


*C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*


*Port Royal,*


*South Carolina*

*cpt.b...@gmail.com <bobhick...@rogers.com>*


*~~~~ __/) ~~~~*

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