Tim,

I did not see a response from a 35-3 owner so here is how we approach backstay 
pressure on Calypso.  Calypso has Dyform wire fore and back stays rated equal 
to the rod that was replaced.  We have a Harken roller furler.  Typically we 
experience the most forestay sag in 17 to 20 TWS with the heavy #1 up.  By 
downshifting to the #3 we are again able to meet our target forestay sag.  The 
70’s era 43’s have fore/aft bulkheads that run from the foreward bulkhead to 
about 6’ aft the mast to stiffen the hull from bending forces.

A good visual is the backstay adjuster is attempting to force the mast through 
the keel.  As you add tension (represented as pump PSI) there will be a point 
where you risk damage to the rig or hull.  When we purchased Calypso the hull 
had some fractures just forward of the mast step / leading edge of keel.  The 
fractures were discovered when looking for the source of water seepage.

During the repair process the best theory we developed was during the decades 
of hard racing with over use of the backstay adjuster the hull laminate was 
stressed causing the athwart ships fractures.  A few years later we had several 
guys on board who had crewed on the boat when it was raced hard up and down the 
east coast in the 70’s (then known as Arieto).  Both indicated they “cranked 
the s#*t out of the backstay adjuster to gain a straighter forestay.

On Calypso we also use 2,000 psi as a upper limit.  As we approach that limit I 
sight up the mast to be sure it is still in column.  If the mast head is 
sagging off to leeward or there is excessive mast bend the forestay “looks” 
longer to the rig.  I have yet to determine a good way to measure hull 
deflection/bend when at max backstay pressure.  The 2,000 psi upper limit is 
based on the feel of the rig and past experience with other hydraulic systems.  
I do expect the psi gauge is representing only the internal pressure of the 
pump.  If a more scientific calculation of actual force being added to the rig 
was desired I recommend obtaining a copy of Brion Toss’s rigging book, the 
owner’s manual for your hydraulic pump, and a friend good a math.

On several fancier race boats I have sailed we used running back stays to 
straighten the mast reducing the forestay sag.  We would set the backstay 
adjuster close to max then crank up the running back until the mast and or the 
forestay was straight enough.  To be clear, I was not the boat owner nor 
responsible for the repair bills. As the saying goes “nothing performs like a 
loaner”.

If you are confident the mast/rig is correctly set up and in column, all the 
fore and aft stay components are in good shape, and you are not using too large 
of a head sail for the TWS it may be worth adding a little more pressure to the 
adjuster and look for an improvement.  If there is no change to the forestay 
sag I would assume the boat is bending or something else is giving way.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2014 9:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Backstay Tension 35/3

Hi all 35-3 racers (and others with hydraulics), how much do you tension your 
backstay to get an acceptably straight forestay in 20-25kts?  We were racing in 
that last night and our forestay was way looser than I wanted with the backstay 
at 2000psi (2 on the hydraulic panel).  I have never gone above this before 
(1.8 seemed to be plenty for most conditions last year), but wondered what 
others maxed out at.

I think the backstay is -10 rod with associated cylinder and we have a navtec 
panel that manages both backstay and vang.

Thanks,

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT
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