The pinless moisture meters can be pricey ($~250).  Check with a local
surveyor, they usually have meters.   See if they'll inspect just the
rudder.  I wouldn't drill holes before I was absolutely sure there was
water in there.

There were little or no indications of water in mine but when the
fiberglass guy removed one side of the fiberglass shell, he was able to
pour water out.  The foam was completely saturated which prevented any
outward sloshing sound.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jun 6, 2014 8:47 AM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

>   I don't remember. But I did not use any special (i.e. especially long
> drill bits). And I did not drill more than probably 1/8 diameter. I am
> guessing here, but I would imagine an inch (?).
>
> Marek
>
>  *From:* Ed Dooley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Sent:* Thursday, June 05, 2014 1:50 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question
>
> I'll try it this weekend. How far did you drill in? The boat's still on
> the hard, about to finally get its new name, Banshee, painted on.
> I bought it with the name Jack Rabbit, which also included a cartoony
> vinyl decal of a bunny, very silly.
> Ed
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From: *Marek Dziedzic <dziedzi...@hotmail.com>
> *Date: *Thu, 5 Jun 2014 13:44:23 -0400
> *To: *Ed Dooley <edoo...@madriver.com>, <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question
>
> there was water in mine, when I bought it. I drained it through a little
> hole at the bottom. Btw. I never glassed the hole; instead I used some gunk
> (silicon, butyl etc.; whatever was around) to plug it. You can probably do
> it with some chewing gum.
>
> The good news is that you can easily lift the rudder of its hinges and do
> the inspection when the boat is in the water.
>
> Marek
>
> *From:* Ed Dooley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Sent:* Thursday, June 05, 2014 12:09 PM
> *To:* cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question
>
> Thanks for the advice guys. I came across a C&C 24 rudder failure problem
> in the Wooden Boat forums (see below). According to the guy whose rudder
> snapped, it's 2 mahogany planks wrapped in fiberglass mat. That makes the
> drilling a hole idea seem a little unnecessary, unless I do it to see if
> the mahogany is rotting, not to expect water to pour out. Maybe later C&Cs
> used a foam core. Thanks for the tip on the pinless moisture meters, I have
> an old lignomat pin type.
> Ed
>
> "In heavy winds last Sunday (7/22) my rudder snapped at the water line -
> the broken off part disappeared as my C&C 24 was blown in circles until I
> got the sails down.   A replacement was quoted at $2900.  The construction
> was fiberglass mats over two sandwiched mahogany planks.  I am looking for
> advice on rebuilding it.  Would marine grade plywood  be stronger?  I
> thought I would cut the general shape out of mahogany or plywood sandwiched
> together and then over lay it with fiberglass mats.  Any suggestions?"
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From: *Ken Heaton <kenhea...@gmail.com>
> *Reply-To: *<kenhea...@gmail.com>
> *Date: *Thu, 5 Jun 2014 09:21:17 -0300
> *To: *Ed Dooley <edoo...@madriver.com>, cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question
>
> No gouging.  You use a Pinless Moisture Meter like this:
>
>
> http://answers.canadiantire.ca/answers/9045/product/0574572P/mastercraft-mastercraft-pinless-moisture-detector-questions-answers/questions.htm
>
> Or these: http://www.electrophysics.on.ca/e_index.htm
>
> You don't use the meter for an absolute value, instead you use the meter
> to compare an area you know is dry to one that is questionable.
>
> I don't know anything about the construction of the rudder on the 24 but
> I'll assume it is a fibreglass shell with a foam core and a structural web
> inside welded to the rudder shaft.
>
> Me, I'd drill a 1/8"hole straight up through the bottom edge of the
> rudder, using a long bit so you can get several inches up into the foam
> core and see if water comes out.  If there is water and it comes out clear
> you shouldn't have too much to worry about except what damage may already
> have been done through freezing.  If it comes out rusty and black I'd be
> concerned about the condition of the internal structure.  Plug the hole
> whit epoxy before you launch the boat.  Re drill the hole in the fall when
> you haul so the water can't freeze in there.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On 5 June 2014 02:52, Ed Dooley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> No, It's hanging on the stern, outside, for a Vermont  winter, 5 winters
> in a row since I've bought the boat. A moisture meter  implies gouging a
> hole through the fiberglass. Is that what you're  suggesting?
> Ed
>
> On Jun 4, 2014, at 7:21  PM, John Irvin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  wrote:
>
>
> Do you dry it out over the winter?  If no, try a moisture meter to check.
> My 27 has drain plugs  I  installed to dry out over the Ontario winter..
>
> ------------------------------
> *From: *Ed  Dooley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Sent: *2014-06-04 5:00 PM
> *To:  *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject: *Stus-List C&C 24 rudder  question
>
> After reading a few posts  of rudder failure on C&C 24s, I thought I
> should look into mine.
> It  *seems* solid, but how do I know without drilling into it? There is
> a  crack in the fiberglass at the top of the rudder,
> but I can't tell how  far in it goes unless I dig into it. Any thoughts on
> exploratory surgery? I  know there are some doctors on this list.   :-)
> Thanks,
> Ed
>
>
>
>
>  ------------------------------
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