I would strongly suggest a real 30 amp shore power outlet.
Back in the day I might have been the person tripping the breaker and working 
on the wiring when this Y-thing gets plugged in.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2014 12:56 PM
To: kenhea...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List ELECTRIC YACHT LAUNCH!

Alex,

add one more gotcha to this setup.

When you Y-connect the two outlets, you are effectively, back feeding the power 
from one outlet to the other. If, by any chance, one breaker trips, you would 
be providing power through your Y-connection back to that tripped circuit. It 
would be even worse (more dangerous) if that breaker was not tripped, but 
switched off (e.g. to do some work on that circuit). In normal situation, such 
breakers would have to be ganged together.

You might use something like this at home (or cottage), but in a Club setting, 
where you have very little control over the entire set-up, you may not want to 
risk it.

Marek

From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2014 8:25 AM
To: Alex Giannelia<mailto:a...@airsensing.com> ; 
cnc-list<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List ELECTRIC YACHT LAUNCH!

Hi Alex,

5)      Recharging at my club is a bit of a challenge because it looks like the 
15A it needs is not being delivered at my dockside station, unlike the power 
supply I had at the yard.  My installer recommended using a y-splitter to 
provide a plug in into 2 15A outlets combining into my 1 30A inlet cable, what 
does the list think?

Be very careful when you do this.  It can work but can also be dangerous.

Single phase electrical services have two different hots in 180 degree opposite 
phase to each other.  Generally, half the outlets in the marina will be on one 
phase and the other half on the opposite phase.  If you end up with your "Y" 
combiner on opposite phases there will be a very big bang before the breaker 
trips as you will effectively dead short the two hot phases of the system 
together.  Generally all the odd numbered circuits will be on one phase and the 
even on the opposite but this isn't always true, especially if it is a small 
panel.

You will have to test this test this by using an AC voltmeter that is rated for 
at least 250 volts AC to measure the voltage between the two outlets you want 
to share, measuring between the two hots (the small flat opening, the larger 
flat one is the neutral and the "D" or 'U" shaped one is the safety ground).  
If they are on the same phase the meter will read 0 volts and you can use those 
two outlets.  If they are on opposite phases the meter will read 240 volts (or 
so) and you can't use those, you will have to keep testing until you find a 
pair on the same phase.  They probably won't be next to each other as it is 
usual for adjacent outlets to be on opposite phases.

Three phase services are a bit more complicated, the outlet numbering per phase 
will be different, but the results will be the same, the voltmeter between 
outlets on the same phase will read 0 volts, on different phases will read 208 
volts (or thereabouts).

You want both legs of your "Y" combiner in the same phase, every time, for this 
to work.

You will probably have an issue with helpful people unplugging one side of your 
adapter and plugging it in to a different outlet, for whatever reason, with 
nasty results.  You will have to come up with a way to prevent them from doing 
this.

I hope my explanation is clear?

Ken H.

On 2 June 2014 05:56, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Yesterday, after 7.5 years on the hard, we launched and enjoyed our maiden 
voyage under electric power.

Now, I have to clean up the below decks which took the brunt of the load of 
dirt etc. caused by all the glass and deck work but at least we are in the 
water!

Now, for a few notes as to how she performed


1)      So quiet and smooth at low RPM that you don’t even know you are running 
the engine, until you look out the back and see the prop wash swirls.

2)      Below 1000 RPM hardly noticeable

3)      Above 1000 RPM we encountered some vibration which we surmised was due 
to imperfect alignment related as well to being on the hard for so long, so we 
will re-align in a week etc. till this goes away.

4)      The stuffing box was adjusted at the dock to just tighter than no drips 
when not turning.  Under power, initially no temperature rise noted until about 
20 minutes.  As there was  hardly any water dripping while turning, I then 
slowly loosened it to 1 drip per 20 seconds and the temperature rise stopped 
and it was just warm to the touch.  Interestingly at the controls which shows 
time to discharge, after I did this, the time number went up, reflecting the 
loss in resistance.  I then re-locked the nut in this position and it ran fine.

5)      Recharging at my club is a bit of a challenge because it looks like the 
15A it needs is not being delivered at my dockside station, unlike the power 
supply I had at the yard.  My installer recommended using a y-splitter to 
provide a plug in into 2 15A outlets combining into my 1 30A inlet cable, what 
does the list think?

6)      With a new Martec 2 bladed folder, backed up nicely, got up to the full 
rated 1850 RPM easily except of course the aforementioned vibration above 1000.

7)      Cockpit conversations at cruise power were held in a normal tone of 
voice….as if we were ghosting….

Alex Giannelia
CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed
TORONTO, Ontario

ag@@airsensing.com<http://airsensing.com>


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