Can be a tough job. On Windburn I pulled the shaft a couple of years ago ensure it could be removed in the water if it every was required.
On my C&C 30-1 the dimensions are: Shaft - 7/8" diameter Coupling - 3 1/2" outside diameter, three bolt holes Coupling - 1 5/8" inside machined cavity - 5/8" deep I had to use the bolts on the coupling to break the shaft free. I made up a spacer with 5 heavy washers, 1 7/16" outside diameter and 1/2" hole. I put a 1 1/2 long bolt through it and a nut just flush with the bolt end. Outside diameter of the bolt head and nut was just under 7/8". The assembly mated squarely with both the shaft and back of the engine and the washers held everything in position. The shaft was noticeably frozen in place. I had cleaned and oiled the coupling bolts and they still required significant torque to get the shaft moving. I think the use of a socket is fine as long as you can be 100% sure it is in place and the forces are not too high. I believe the problem I was having may have been caused by the set screw forcing a lip of metal up that was binding all the way out. I drilled a small depression into the shaft after it was out and made a matching round on the front of the set screw. I did a trial fit with the set screw tightened. When I took it apart by hand a firm pull and taps from a plastic mallet was enough. Two years later ( last winter ) I pulled the shaft and replaced the stuffing. Shaft came out without any requirement of special language this time. I am impressed by the Johnson Duramax stuffing. Previously the slightest tightening of the stuffing box stopped all water flow, and the most minute loosening that I could do would drip constantly even at rest. The new stuffing allows a range of drip rates to be adjusted. Michael Brown Windburn C&C 30-1 Date: Fri, 16 May 2014 11:16:39 -0400 From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> To: Nate Flesness <nateflesn...@gmail.com>, "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how? Message-ID: <CAEL16P_Y-sXjpmoJk9GwLmfu_Pi3=Yxjuzouz=1yvpjvnul...@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Nate, This has come up before. I think the best advice (not mine) was to put a socket slightly smaller than the shaft against the end of the shaft and tighten the bolts on the coupling to force out the shaft. Joel. On Fri, May 16, 2014 at 10:52 AM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I need to replace the stuffing box hose. Boat (30-1) is on the hard and I > have the new Buck Algonquin hose, new packing, new clamps. Anyone have > advice re removal of the forward prop shaft coupling? It is disconnected > from the transmission and I've pulled the prop shaft aft, so there is some > clearance between the couplings. The pbase website suggests that these > couplings may be press fit (as in machine shop press).... PB blaster > applied, light taps with mallet do nothing so far, considering heating it > with a torch....? > > Nate > "Sarah Jean" > 1980 30-1 > Siskiwit Bay Marine > Lake Superior > (with floating ice chunks mid-May.....!) > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > -- Joel 301 541 8551 *****************************************
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