Andrew

 

I replaced all the washers on the keel bolts on Alianna with 3/8 stainless
plate.  The keel bolts may need to be torqued, including the one under the
mast.   Before torquing the bolts, depending on how serious the leak is,
(like is the bilge filled with water now or if it were full then how bad
would the leak be) you may be able to grind into the joint on either side
back aft as far as you have to and force some compound into the joint after
you clean it out.  I did that on my 35 MKII and I filled the cavity I
created at the joint with 3M 5200.  That will prevent leaking from the
outside into the boat after launch and when you torque the keel bolts and
replace the washers with something more substantial or use at least 2
washers per bolt you can also put compound (4200 0r 5200) around the bolts
where they come up through the hull…I used a lot so that it squished out all
around as I torqued the nuts.  That was 8 years ago and no problems.  Torque
Specs are on the cnc site.  You will need a ¾ in drive and some large (I
think 11/4 and 11/2) deep sockets and about a 1-2 foot long extension on the
drive and a force multiplier on the socket handle…I used a 4 foot long
section of steel pipe…don’t jerk the socket, just steady pull and when you
use the pipe extension you only have enough room for one click on the
ratchet at a time

 

I would expect the keel bolts to be fine and the nuts too…I would definitely
try that before doing a total removal and re-bedding of the keel…On the
outside, after the 5200 cures a bit you can fair with car body filler or you
can epoxy over the entire joint with glass reinforced epoxy and then fair.

 

  _____  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of andrew
rothweiler
Sent: April 24, 2014 2:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List (no subject)

 

Hello all,

Just returned from the trip to look at a C&C 35-2.  I only saw two things
that concerned me (I'm no expert of course and I'd have a thorough survey),
and I'm writing too ask people's opinions on these two issues.

First, at the keel to hull joint, directly under the mast, there was water
weeping through the joint onto both sides of the keel.  Also, if not
mistaken, I believe that the forward keel bolt, which is under the mast and
can't be seen unless the mast is removed, is in this location on a vertical
plane.  Is this weeping at the hull/keel joint a serious concern? (i.e. is
it enough not to waste money on a survey?) Is it likely that there is water
running from the bilge or through the mast, past the keel bolt under the
mast (hence a potentially comprised/rusty keel bolt under the mast?) and
coming out through the joint?  1) the owner has had the boat shrink wrapped
and on the hard for the last three years, and told me that winds this winter
have blown the shrink wrap off the boat, and this spring is the first time
the weeping has occurred. 2)  The entire hull keel joint looked to me to be
very good or excellent, no smile visible, and the bottom looked pretty
smooth with a near perfect coat of fresh bottom paint.

Second,  the washer on the center (lowest in the bilge?) keel bolt was
extremely rusty. The other visible keel bolts and washers looked very good.
I don't remember if the center keel bolt itself was rusty. Also,  the
gelcoat surface of the bottom of the keel was spider cracked pretty
thoroughly, I thought at the time that this was superficial and cosmetic.
Are the rusty keel bolt washer and the spider cracked surface of the bilge
potential areas of concern?

Thank you in advance for any guidance here.

 

_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Reply via email to