>> I ended up using Dyform wire instead of conventional wire.<<
I used Dyform wire to replace old rod for Calypso's fore and back stay. Replaced the rod shrouds with new using the original custom fittings, with new turnbuckles. I had Brion Toss review my calculations for wire loads and he spoke well of Dyform. The forestay has a Harken Roller Furler installed over the wire. We paid close attention to the terminal installation to avoid issues hidden under the roller fittings. After about 10 years of use we needed to replace the furler's torque tube and dis-assembled the lower end fittings and inspected. The Dyform looked as new. If you use Norseman Swageless terminals or similar wire end fittings with Dyform wire be sure to buy cones (used inside the swageless terminal) designed for Dyform. Martin Calypso 1971 C&C 43 Seattle -----Original Message----- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass Sent: Thursday, April 10, 2014 7:23 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List rod rigging versus wire replacement experiences please A couple of summers ago, while sailing in significant slop and 16 to 20 knot winds on Pamlico Sound, I heard a sound like a shot from a .22 and thought "Crap, something just broke!" The jump stay waving back and forth and banging into the mast certainly elevated the priority on the inspection I had wanted to give the rod rigging before going cruising. Was able to buy some replacement turnbuckle thimbles from Navtec to do temporary repairs and deliver the boat to the rigger. Navtec told me that for my 30 year old rod rigging, I should remove all the rod, ship it to them for nondestructive testing and to have the ends x-rayed, and they would rehead or replace as needed. When I talked to my rigger, the cost of new wire rigging was about a grand less than the cost of removal, shipping, and testing of the rod rigging. That's without reheading or replacing anything. I ended up using Dyform wire instead of conventional wire. The strand of Dyform wire are sort of pie shaped, so they pack metal into a smaller cross section than regular wire made of round strands. My Dyform rigging is only about 1/16th inch larger in diameter than the #10 rod, but actually about 1000 pounds greater tensile strength. Rigger used crimp fittings for the upper ends of the wires that attach to the existing mast tangs with the same sort of ball joints used for rod rigging, and used crimp on turnbuckles that are comparable to the ones used for the spreader tips on rod rigging. Lower end of each wire was cut to length at the boat and Norseman fittings were used to facilitate installation of shrouds and stays. If I had to do it again, I'd do the same thing. My rig is stronger than rod, it's new, it has almost the same weight and wind resistance as the old rod, and I saved at least a grand. I' a happy camper. Rick Brass C&C 38 Imzadi Washington, NC _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
