When I bought Touche' (with A4) there FIRST thing I did was to drop the sediment bowl. YUCK!! Looked like coffee with globs of butter colored clouds in it. I had suspected before purchase that the engine had not run in several years. This confirmed my suspicion.
I pulled the fuel tank and replaced it (a thorough cleaning would also work), placed a coffee can at one end of the fuel line and squirted a half can of Gunk carb cleaner through it until the discharge looked clear, rebuilt the carb, cleaned the sediment bowl and filled the tank with fresh gas. Took a while but it finally fired up and ran fine for years after. When I was in the Navy in Japan. I had a Kawasaki 500 MkIII (fastest production motorcycle at the time. Yeah, I was stoopid). I had it shipped back to the States after my service. It was in transit for several months. Once I got it back, I made several unsuccessful attempts to start it. I drained all the fuel, replaced it with new gas and it fired right up. Never, never underestimate the problems bad fuel can cause. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Fri, Mar 7, 2014 at 6:57 PM, Michael Brown <m...@tkg.ca> wrote: > Dirty carb? > > Water backing up through the exhaust, through the motor, then through the > intake system into the carb is pretty unlikely. I mention this since if > the actual > source of the contamination is something else you could have the problem > again. > > Do you have a mechanical fuel pump? If so there is a metal cup on the stern > side of it, held in by a bail. Place a coffee filter in a clean tin can, > remove the > cup and dump the gas out into the can. Check the filter and the bottom of > the cup for debris. A few A4s I have checked were running "fine", but at > least half of the cup was full of sediment. > > The mechanical fuel pump has a level, looks like a coat hanger bent around > the pump, that is a primer to get gas back into the carb after the lines > have > been drained without cranking the engine. > > My opinion, not shared by many, is that the inline fuel filters of the sort > sold for cars do not filter well. The opinion is based on wiping the cup > out > with a clean cloth, then doing the same a year later. The A4 is a very > small > engine, 17 - 30 HP compared to 150 and up for a car. The tiny jet, > infrequent > use and low intake vacuum on the A4 make it sensitive to the stuff that > would pass through a car. > > The bulkhead mounted filter / water separators that have a oil filter sized > canister are good to remove particulate down to 10 microns. I like the type > that have a heavy shell, and the filter is inside. Some come with a drain > at > the bottom, makes it easy to check for water. Get the drain plug that has > a slot / hole cut in it so the plug does not have to be removed to drain > the filter. > > A lot of work for a couple of cans a gas a year ... > > > Michael Brown > Windburn > C&C 30-1 > > > Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2014 18:40:33 -0500 > From: "bobmor99 ." <bobmo...@gmail.com> > To: kenhea...@gmail.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List Exhaust Riser Replacement > Message-ID: > <CAM7ccYKJ5W5XGtqdwo4DDE=9je2rjdpofpdxq87ygfbiu8g...@mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > Brief update: > Mechanic friend removed the carb and cleaned out lots of gaboo. Started > right up after that. > Water and crud must have somehow backed up through the exhaust manifold > into the carb while the exhaust riser was failing and there wasn't enough > pressure to keep everything (exhaust and cooling water) moving aft > Life is good. Long live the A4 > > Bob M > Ox 33-1 > Jax, FL > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > >
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