My tip is to buy a new Harken MK IV. However, I understand budget constraints.
I have a MKIII Unit 1 on Touche'. It took me about an hour to disassemble my MKIII last year. Fortunately, the MKIII doesn't have the dreaded roll pins to hold the extrusions together. Chuck is correct, you will need to completely disassemble the furler. If you're lucky, you can save the forestay. However, if there is any damage or questionable spots, chunk it and buy a new one. A new forestay should be under $200. It can be wire. I'm not convinced that rod is justified for the stays. Shrouds, yes. Hopefully you have a manual and know how to loosen the torque tube and the locking collar. If not, visit the Harken site. They have exploded drawings, parts lists and manuals online. Once you have removed the drum assembly, torque tube etc. and have just the extrusions, the real work begins. Anyway, if the person who assembled the MKIII knew what they were doing and followed the instructions, you will be in it for a bit of work. The connectors and screws should have been installed with red threadlocker. You will have to remove the extrusions one by one beginning with the bottom section with the feeder slot. For those who managed to read this far, one of the better tools to use for this job, and, IMHO, one of the best tools a boat owner can have is a Gearwrench micro driver set, Model 30035. This tool will be far better than a screwdriver to remove the screws from the extrusion. You can apply a lot of downward pressure while controlling the amount of rotational force. Use a heat gun to loosen the threadlocker on the screws. Once you remove the screws at each connection, apply heat to the joint and carefully try to spread the joint using a 5 in 1 knife on the sides and opposite the tracks. If you can get it to spread slightly, use a screwdriver to spread it farther. Try not to work on the track side. If you booger up the tracks you will have to file them on reassembly to get the sail's tape to run smooth. You can also try to "hammer" the connection with the bottom swage stud of the forestay if it's wire. Secure the top eye to a solid object. Like screw it to a piling or the dock with a lag bolt. Now you can slide the bottom extrusion down hard so the swage slams the connector. Hopefully, you will see if begin to move. Remember to use heat. Once you have removed a lower section, grab the connector with some vise grips, heat the joint and carefully but strongly remove the connector. Try not to mar it too badly. You'll have to dress it up in order to reassemble it. Just make sure you don't bend it. Repeat for each section. Be patient and try not to do a lot of damage. Good luck. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Feb 27, 2014 at 6:43 PM, Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> wrote: > I installed my Harken furler and know the removal will be very involved, > especially if sections are damaged or twisted. If I remember right, the > top eye is too big to pull the sections off there, and instead you have to > remove the torque tube and all of the aluminum sections from the bottom. > The 7" long connectors that join the sections and ride on the rod, stay on > the rod, so you have to slide the sections over each one till they come off > the bottom. I think there are 7 sections and it will take some time to > take it all apart. > > It may be wise to cut the rod close to the eye or the bottom fitting and > pull the old stuff off and trash recycle it for scrap. Then coil the rod > and take it to a rigger and have him install the bearing pieces and rehead > the rod. You can add a toggle to make up the rod length and keep your > headstay length. > See page 22 of the manual. > http://www.harken.com/uploadedfiles/Product_Support/PDF/mk3-1-4863.pdf > > I think I would order a new furler. > > Maybe Dennis has some tips? > > Chuck > Resolute > 1990 C&C 34R > Atlantic City, NJ > ------------------------------ > *From: *"Jean-Francois J Rivard" <jfriv...@us.ibm.com> > *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Sent: *Thursday, February 27, 2014 10:45:35 AM > *Subject: *Stus-List Looking for a used Harken MkIII Unit 1 Reefer or > parts for a MKII Unit 1 > > Hi Y'all, > > With the boat on the hard and the mast down (Thanks for encouraging me on > the mast un-stepping, it was a quick and easy deal). I found a few > skeletons in the closet.. > > The easy one > > The LED anchor light is shot, I'll replace it with a nice Tricolor, here's > what I have in mind: http://www.transmarinestore.com/product_p/sm001.htm > It's a bit pricey but it looks top notch and would save the batteries when > sailing in the dark. I'm thinking about getting the 2 wires unit with the > reversing switch. Any reason I should rewire for 3 wires? > > The potentially expensive one.. > > The boat currently has a MkII unit 1 that has seen better days, one of > the foils is shot (Twist and rip) some prior owner probably did the ol' > halyard wrap trick. A couple others are bent in an "S" shape.. (Probably > a spinnaker boom hit) and the torque tube is shot. > > So now I am looking for a used Harken MkIII Unit 1 Reefer or parts for my > MKII Unit 1 > > The parts I need are: > > Torque Tube (Must Have) > Hub assembly (Nice to have) > 2-3 sections of foil (Must Have) > > Otherwise I would just buy a complete used MKIII unit 1 kit in good > condition. > > If anyone can give me some leads as to where to find that it would be much > appreciated. I've already done an email blast to the consignment usual > suspects and I have called Harken in hopes of finding some re-man stuff but > the guy is out today. > > Spending $2,500.00 + on a new unit is out of the question for this year > as I am already spending kilobucks on the bottom job, electronics, running > rigging, etc, etc. > > I need this in the next couple weeks while she's still on the hard.. > > Thanks in advance. > > Francois Rivard > 1990 C&C 34+ "TakeFive" > Lake Lanier, Georgia > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > >
_______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
