John, here are my comments:
Radar Cable: Common practice is to put a terminal block at the base of the mast. I have a very old JRC1000 and I am happy with how it works. Adding quick connect is an exercise in patients, and requires steady hand and professional soldering skills. It took me few days to solder the end that connects to display unit. And if connectivity is broken on any of the wires there is no telling what you'll get. Follow the colors when splicing it and cover the terminal with plastic. I used to buy fancy ones form Blue sea etc, but now I cut out the old plastic milk or water container and cover the terminal using 4 screws. Windlass: You need to take the motor off and take it apart. Can you manually retract the chain? I've taken DC motor apart and cleaned brushes before, this would usually get the motor shaft spinning again when DC is applied. I've done that numerous times with rule bilge pumps. But you need to find out if the bearing is seized as well. Good windlass installations will be protected with circuit breaker so there is a good chance the motor is good. I.e winding insulation not melted shorted together. If you are going to increase the chain length make sure freefall and is plenty. I added 275' of 5/16 BBB and that was one of the best investments for cruising. One thing I was as advised and did before cruising is adding a solent stay or inner forestay with runners. I used it only few times in 8 years but under the circumstances it was worth it. I am mostly coastal cruising now but, but with a toddler on board, I am thinking of adding the furler on the inner forestay to make things safer. Petar Horvatic Sundowner 76 C&C 38MkII Newport, RI From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2014 11:09 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Radar Cable Connector & other advice Cut'n Paste version because original message was so large it went into moderation... If it weren't so financially depressing I'd exchange my detailed refit spreadsheet for yours. Like you said, a big but fun project. I'm working on the design of a windlass mount for my anchor today as a matter of fact. FWIW, I paid ~$820.00 in 2011 for my Lewmar Pro-Series 1000 windlass. Certainly not as large/heavy duty as yours but might provide some idea of costs. I can't help with the cabling issue but my general rule is to buy new electronics. I know that's easily said when the money isn't mine but I've found with electronics that it's always "bigger, better and faster" for the same price as previous years and models. I have a question: You have a saildrive. I don't think that was factory in 1978. Did you convert your propulsion system from a standard shaft/strut to the sail drive? I'd be very curious as to how that has worked out and what is involved if that is the case. Cheers, Dave Godwin 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin Reedville - Chesapeake Bay Ronin <https://www.dropbox.com/sc/rc5glw32g8sg5kd/0q_fEyi9m5> 's Overdue Refit On Jan 21, 2014, at 10:44 AM, Maturo, John <john.mat...@yale.edu> wrote: I have a 1978 Baltic 39/C&C (Rob Ball) and I need some help locating cable connectors for my Furuno radar model 821/841. I want to put a quick disconnect were the cable comes out of the mast. I stupidly cut the cable to get the radar off of the mast which was laying on horses in the yard last year during Sandy. Too much action, not enough thinking. I soldered the cable ends together this spring, but probably did not get the coax right with its very fine stranded wire core and so no picture. Any advice on locating connectors or suggestions like, just replace the whole cable, or replace the whole radar would be welcome. I have a nice set of 10 year old B&G instruments tied into a Navman GPS which all works fine, but the resolution of the display on the Navman is fairly coarse by current standards. Do you think I should be putting together a more modern system with radar, instruments, and GPS all tied together. Which of probably means all new instruments. I also have a Muir 24 volt VFF 1050/2200 vertical windlass with a seized motor due to salt corrosion from a somewhat careless installation by the PO. I have checked and the cost of a new motor is about $1,000. I would appreciate any advice on this aspect. I currently have 3/8 BBB chain, 80 ft with another 200 ft of 1/2 triple strand. I am currently coastal cruising while I do a refit of the boat in preparation for blue water cruising. This year new rod and teak. Last year I replaced the running rigging, refrigeration, and stripped and barrier coated the bottom. The motor, Yanmar 3YM30 with sail drive is 10 years old with about 800 hours on it. During the season I am going to replace the holding tank and head plumbing. The sails will come last as what I have works fine for the coastal cruising we are doing now. This is a big, but fun project. I just pulled out interior panels to get at the deck fittings in preparation for the new teak. I am pulling the chain plates to have them surveyed. The good part of this is that the more I dig the more confidence I have in the boat because the underlying structure is in such good shape and stoutly built. I have a spreadsheet with all of the work being done and costs and also started a power point slide show. I would be happy to share this as requested via my regular email. John Maturo Ashe, Baltic 39 john.mat...@yale.edu
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