Dwight;

 

The tracks C&C installed on my boat at the factory are Merriman “H” tracks.
In cross section, they look sort of like an I beam with a very short web,
or, if laid on the edge, they look like an “H”. I suppose the wide base of
the installation helps maintain the seal because the track is much less
susceptible to “wiggling” under side loads than a modern “T” track.

 

That’s supposition on my part, but I know the tracks installed at the
factory sometime between January and April of 1976 have never leaked. They
are bedded in Butyl, and the 5/16ths screws holding the track are tightly
fit into the holes in the deck – which are also filled with compressed
butyl. Under the deck, and above the headliner, is an aluminum backing plate
about 2” wide, and the screws are double nutted so they retain torque. The
spacing of the holes in the H track is also less than the standard spacing
of T track (I once considered replacing the tracks and found about the
spacing in the process), and I think the closer spacing of the fasteners
also helps maintain the seal.

 

On the 3 or 4 38s I’ve been aboard, the headliner has a channel that drops
down below the area of the fasteners for the tracks – sort of like the
“flanged” area at the edge of the liner near the toe rail fasteners. The
channel has a removable cover plate held up by self taping screws for access
to the fasteners. The channel and the cover would make it pretty apparent
where the leak was, if you should have one.

 

Now my 25 mk1 did not have a genoa track or a simple means of adjusting the
sheet leads. I guess the idea was to snap shackle blocks to the slotted toe
rail. The boat came with 3 or 4 sets of snatch blocks with snap shackles
when I bought her. When I installed the Garhauer genoa cars on her, I had to
install a new T track. It is actually a Harken T track purchases locally,
because shipping two 8 foot pieces of Garhauer track from California to
Pennsylvania was more than all the herdware combined.

 

I positioned the track where I wanted it on the deck, taped it down, and
marked where all the holes needed to be. I then set the track aside and,
using a ¾” diameter hole saw, cut through the deck and into the core without
cutting the headliner. Pulled out the balsa plugs and cleaned out the holes
and removed core between deck and liner around each hole. The filled each
hole with thickened West epoxy. Can’t recall exactly which numbers, but I do
recall it was slow cure hardener and high load filler. After the epoxy was
cured, I remarked the position for each hole and drilled through for the ¼”
screws I was using, making sure to chamfer the deck at the top of each hole
to get a good seal later.

 

I also made backing plates to go inside the liner. Three plates for each
side (below the deck in the lazarette, in the dish fiddle and food locker
opposite, and in the fiddle behind the settees) because the bulkheads were
solid and there was no allowance for a backing plate to be installed through
them.

 

When I installed the tracks, I dry fit the tracks and put blue tape along
the deck on each side so I could easily remove any sealant that squished
out. Then I coated the bottom of the T with 4200, inserted all the screws
and coated the threads with 4200 (to fill the holes full) and then mounted
the track onto the deck with the screws poking down inside. Then install the
backing plates over the screws and secure with Ny-Lok nuts. Next was to have
someone on deck to keep each screw from turning while I seated the Ny-Lok
nuts from below until sealant squished out from under the track. Next day
may helper came back and torque the nuts while making sure the screws did
not turn and break the seal inside each hole. Finally, take an Exacto knife
and cut the sealant along the edge of the track and pull up the excess
sealant along with the blue tape.

 

Did all that in 1996, and haven’t had a leak or soft spot in the deck yet.
Knock wood.

 

Now I know that for most everyone on the list, and probably for you as well,
just saying that if you over drill, fill, and redrill the  holes  you should
get a good seal would have been adequate.  But describing the whole process
is probably beneficial for some of the less experienced listers.

 

Besides, now you can understand my comment in an earlier post that replacing
the existing tracks is a true PITA.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 2:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable genoa car system for C&C 38

 

So do most people get away with installing these tracks and never have
leaks.  With all the associated holes through the deck it would be very
fortunate to never experience leaking and with the liners in C&C boats that
leaking can be well hidden.

 

 

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