Gary, Yeah the build evolved so I'm real pleased. I used a bunch of coupling so almost every component can be replaced. The manifold can be quickly removed for anode replacement too. And yes the Lowes in California, MD does love me, in fact I was accused of building a rocket ship. Better than the previous occasion on which I was accused of building a huge spud gun (aka: roller furler protective shell out of PVC pipe). I have also been accused of being the most helpful employee there despite never claiming a paycheck.
Anyway...On this water heater (Raritan) the anode is a part of the hot water outlet nipple (top). The anode is so long (~15") that it won't fit in the cold water inlet nipple (bottom) because the inner tank is concaved so deap and the inlet is so close to the bottom. Generaly prescribed water heater maintenance includes a sediment flush, an anode check, and a T&P (relief) valve check once a year. A check of the anode is simply a check that it is still there. Occasionally some anode materials will get a black oxide layer on them that prevents any galvanic corrosion (since that is what they are supposed to do). Clorine in the water can cause the black oxide. If this happens I get some sand paper and remove the oxide. The anodes are usually 3/4" thick with a 1/8" thick steel support rod in the middle. So, to answer one of your questions, as long as the anode is not black and is still physically there (usually white with galvanic corrosion, just like a zinc) then it is "working". As for heating with the engine, mine has a coil of tubing that enters the side of the tank which acts as a heat exchanger. Even though we call it a freshwater cooled engine, it still has glycol based antifreeze. Don't just plumb the engine to the heater. If you have a coil and the heater was made to be heated by the engine then yes it is as simple as you made it sound. Run a supply and return coolant hose to the heater from the coolant manifold on the engine (same block as the thermostat and over temperature sensor on my Yanmar). The leading cause of heater failures is sediment collection on the heater elements. The calcium and magnesium (hard water) plate out on the elements and precipitate. Clorine in the water can also accelerate this. Over years of neglect the sediment accumulates on the bottom. Once the layer is high enough to cover the lowest element (only element in small tanks) the thermal efficiency goes way down and the element simply cannot cool itself in the water. It is after all just an oversized resister. Once this happens it is only a short time till the element burns out. Fortunately they are relatively cheap and easy to replace. Even easier to test. Just check the resistance. As long as it is not "open" the element is probably good. Now check the thermostat. Again continuity when the temp is below setpoint. The only problem with replacing the element is, if you don't get the sediment out then the new element will quickly burn out too. I flush my home water heater every spring and always get about a 1/4 cup of white "sand". At home I have a non-clorinated well and relatively soft water. Who knows how hard the water at the dock is and I keep mine fresh by lightly clorinating with bleach. Sounds like a lot but as long as your tank is watertight, it is worth fixing. Replacing my tank would run me over $1k. For you Gary, I suggest some resistance meter readings followed by flushing the sediment and getting a new element. If you decide it's too much work and want to win more races by reducing weight, then feel free to put your heater by the curb...I'll be by in the morning. ;-) Good luck, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk On Jan 7, 2014 4:43 PM, "Gary Nylander" <[email protected]> wrote: > My water heater quit - it is not plumbed to the engine. First, how do > you check the anode to see if it is working? Second, I have a fresh water > cooled engine, I assume I can just take the water exit hose (which now goes > to the mixing elbow) and put it into the heater???? and then into the > mixing elbow??? > > The plumbing section of your local hardware store must love you....neat > pix. > > Gary > > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Josh Muckley <[email protected]> > *To:* [email protected] > *Sent:* Tuesday, January 07, 2014 3:42 PM > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Marine Plumbing (now water heater rebuild) > > Just a quick look at one of my many winter projects. > > I updated the water heater plumbing to facilitate end of season flushing > and anode check/change. The engine heats the water to about 180°F so I > added a thermal mixing valve to extend the available hot water and prevent > burns. The cold water enters the bottom and doesn't facilitate flushing > well so I put a 3-way valve in to switch the cold water inlet to the top > and then I can open the drain. > > I intend to make a double female garden hose to allow flushing of the > engine and A/C with fresh water from the heater drain. > > I also got a 200W silicone heater pad that I will be attaching to the > inner tank surface. It will at as a load for the furture solar panels when > the batteries are fully charged and need a place to dump excess power. > > While I have it out I'll also repaint and restore everything else on the > tank. > > https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yUG9pd18zazdIZlk/edit > > Later, > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > On Dec 19, 2013 11:37 AM, "Rich Knowles" <[email protected]> wrote: > >> I agree on the PEX. FWIW, when I redid my plumbing, I added a large, >> household size, activated charcoal filter in the feed line to the fresh >> water pressure pump. I change the element every spring and have good >> tasting potable water at all times. >> >> Rich >> >> On Dec 19, 2013, at 12:05, "Marek Dziedzic" <[email protected]> >> wrote: >> >> +1 for PEX. But I would not rip all the existing plumbing and replace >> it. At least, you won’t sink the boat if your plumbing fails (you may flood >> the bilge, but it is not critical). >> >> Marek >> _____________________________________________________________________ >> ------------------------------ >> >> Message: 2 >> Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 07:46:47 -0500 >> From: "Jake Brodersen" <[email protected]> >> To: <[email protected]> >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Marine Plumbing >> Message-ID: <[email protected]> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >> >> Josh, >> >> >> >> I have had several failures of the grey butyl plumbing pipe. I have >> replaced it with PEX tubing. It is flexible and easy to work with and >> available in many places. I find RV stores a good place to pick it up. >> The >> fittings are compression type and will mate with the existing plumbing. >> To >> me, it's a no-brainer. Oh, and did I mention that it's cheap.??? >> >> >> >> Jake >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> [email protected] >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> [email protected] >> >> ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > [email protected] > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > [email protected] > >
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