Wow. You guys have gone deep with the power consumption and recharging
principles. You have open my eyes to a big project moving forward. Keep in
mind my wife and I will not need much power. Bet you have heard that before
from people starting out. HAHAh. Well wet me see what it looks like.

1) AM/FM Radio   *4 hr a week*

2) ST4000 AUTO helm *8 hrs a day*

3) Garmin echo50s (GPS) *8 hrs a day*

4) Bow and stern running lights   *8 hrs a week*

5) Spreader lights  *Almost never*

6) Mast head anchor light *(12 hours a day) LED*

7) Cabin lights *(8 hours a day) LED*

8) VHF Radio “Hand Held” *8 hrs a day*

9) VHF fixed mount *8 hrs a day scan mode weather alert*

10) Ray marine gauge “ Depth” *8 hrs a day*

11) Ray marine gauge “Wind” *8 hrs a day*

12 Ray marine gauges

13) IPOD for movies *2 hrs a day*

14) Cell phones 2 “1 droid”  “1 I phone”



We have no refrigerator

We have no t/v at this time

Toilet is a manual

In doing my research hoping to find a Energy Budget work sheet in excel
format. This way I could plug in the cost of each of my power using pieces
and see what it comes up with.


On Wed, Dec 18, 2013 at 7:37 AM, Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca> wrote:

> And to increase the presumptuous factor:
>
> The alternators that were supplied as original equipment with most small
> boat engines until recently were from 35 - 55 A with internal, single
> voltage output regulators. A good percentage of the engines were destined
> for use in small motor vessels and these alternators were adequate for that
> application. For our use, which sees greatly increased loads from, as Rick
> notes, radar and refrigeration, and lengthy battery discharge periods
> between charges, those alternators are bordering on inadequate, and
> certainly not as efficient and appropriate as higher power units with multi
> stage regulators.
>
> For sailing vessels, a central component of optimizing the electrical
> system should be upgrading the generating capacity of the charging system.
> This will involve replacing the alternator with the largest unit that can
> be fitted, taking physical restrictions, drive belt capacity and depth of
> pocket book into account. For most 20-35 HP engines, around 100A works
> well. There are a number of external regulators available that should be
> considered for installation as part of the new system. A new alternator
> with a multi-step regulator will considerably reduce the engine run time
> needed to replenish the batteries. Other devices such as wind generators
> and solar panels are important for long range travels as well to further
> reduce the dependency on the engine.
>
> For calculation purposes, I generally consider the usable capacity of
> batteries to be 30% rather than 50% of rated capacity. This stems from the
> fact that a 50% discharged battery will charge to around 80% at a fairly
> linear rate which will drop significantly as the state of charge nears
> 100%. Trying to achieve the last 20% can take a long time compared to the
> first 30%. This will vary depending on battery type and condition, so my
> 30% figure is somewhat arbitrary, but fairly realistic.
>
> A shore power fed battery charger from 20-40A will generally suffice to
> sustain loads from refrigeration, lighting and entertainment devices
> operating while the boat is alongside, and also provide enough power to
> replenish the batteries. Again, a multi-step unit designed for marine use
> should be chosen. There are lots of good marine chargers on the market.
>
> I note that non-marine AC chargers may not completely isolate the input
> from the output, a potentially dangerous situation on the water, and should
> be avoided.
>
> As Rick notes, designing an efficient, reliable electrical system is
> complex.
>
> It's snowing again. Grrrr!
>
> Rich Knowles
> INDIGO - LF38
> Halifax, NS
>
>
> On Dec 17, 2013, at 20:45, "Rick Brass" <rickbr...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> Curtis;
>
>
>
> At the risk of being presumptuous, I think you have the cart before the
> horse.
>
>
>
> If your intent is extended cruising – particularly offshore cruising where
> you will not be using your engine for power (and to recharge the batteries)
> every day – you will first need to think about the systems you have on
> board and how much power they will draw. Refrigeration is a major draw.
> Radar? Autopilot? What instruments? What lights? Power for entertainment
> like radio or TV?  Small things like a 12 v electric coffee maker or a
> microwave draw a shocking amount of power out of your batteries.
>
>
>
> Once you know how many amp hours you will use on average, you can figure
> out how many additional batteries you need, what type, and where to put
> them. My average consumption right now is under 100 amp-hours/day. But I
> plan to run refrigeration (45 more AH) and to anchor out for extended
> periods. So my house bank is 4 deep cycle group 27 batteries with 460 AH
> capacity. That gives 230 usable AH (50% discharge) and should let me go for
> 2 days between charges. In addition I have a group 29 marine starting
> battery as a second bank, and a deep cycle group 24 under the v-berth to
> power the head and the anchor windlass.
>
>
>
> The 400+ AH house bank dictates at least a 40amp, multi bank charger. I
> have an older Xantrex 40+ wired to the house and starting bank. There is a
> solar charger for the group 24 battery that is OK for now, but I plan to
> install an ACR that will top up the charge on that battery when I’m hooked
> to shore power or running the engine.
>
>
>
> To put 100 AH into my house bank by running the engine (with a 45 amp
> alternator installed) will take at least 3 hours of run time – which is OK
> when I’m traveling on the ICW but not acceptable when at anchor. SO I plan
> to install a bank of solar panels over the Bimini, and maybe a wind
> generator as well, to maintain the batteries at anchor.
>
>
>
> As you can see, the process starts with determining how much power you
> will be using each day, and that will depend on what systems you have
> installed for cruising.
>
>
>
> You said you had an “OEM” battery charger installed. Probably not really
> OEM, but the question is: is it still working? If it is, spend your money
> on the other systems you will be installing, and the additional batteries,
> and worry about a new (probably more efficient) charger in 2017 or so.
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List 
> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>]
> *On Behalf Of *Curtis
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 17, 2013 1:16 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
>
>
>
> I picked up the one noted above to maintain the battery's. In my first
> post I was trying to explain I needed something to keep the batt's charged
> while sailing ever couple of weeks. "For Now" In  2018 We hope to shove off
> for some extended cruising.
>
> I will need to install a Good expensive on board fixed mount bank charger.
> This is what I was hoping to get advice on. the Good one that will give me
> a charge on all my batt's when I come in from off shore.
>
> Sorry for the confusion.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 12:52 PM, Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Evidently, we all misunderstood the question.  The battery minder is
> advertised to provide a "de-sufating" pulse charge to prevent loss of
> capacity.  This is fine and may or may not add value for your purpose.  Had
> any of us realized that you simply wanted to keep the batteries from self
> discharging during winter storage you would have received drastically
> different answers.
>
> For ultra cheap $20 you can find 2amp smart chargers that cycle to prevent
> over charging.  If conditioning or de-sufating was the goal then I would
> have possibly recommended a higher power portable unit with a conditioning
> feature.  10-40amps, 3 stage, and conditioning mode, $50-100.  Stanley,
> Schumacher, Vector all have similar units available at the big box, auto,
> and boat stores.  I'm not convinced that the battery minder has a more
> effective de-sulfating feature than any of the others.
>
> Many people prefer to occasionally visit the boat to top up the
> batteries.  This eliminates the risks of overcharge, electical fire, and
> galvanic corrosion.
>
> What type of charger did you already have?  What was wrong with using it?
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> On Dec 17, 2013 10:29 AM, "Curtis" <cpt.b...@gmail.com> wrote:
> *Battery Tender Plus 12v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT-021-0128*
>
>
>
> Sorry I posted the wrong model.
>
>
>
>
>
> Wal-mart
>
> $66.48
>
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Bill Bina <billb...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt
> charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing will
> barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery.
>
> Bill Bina
>
>
>
> On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote:
>
> After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night
>
> Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
> This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery
> Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a
> battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging
> effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness
> (1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave
> the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the
> vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when
> connected long term.
>
> I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there.
>
>
>
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> should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>
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> --
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> should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>
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“Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
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