Does anyone know anyone in the Fort Walton Beach area who might be looking for a bit of work? I need someone to take an occasional look at a C&C 26 that's in a slip down there. I recently bought the boat but can't get down to deal with her for a while. Good job for a teen with an interest in boats and a license. Thanks, Jack Downey
-----Original Message----- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2013 12:00 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 93, Issue 37 Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to cnc-list@cnc-list.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com You can reach the person managing the list at cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: C&C 33 Mkii 1985 - Bildge/Power (Graham Collins) 2. Re: singlehanding bigger boats (Chuck S) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2013 10:40:47 -0300 From: Graham Collins <cnclistforw...@hotmail.com> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 33 Mkii 1985 - Bildge/Power Message-ID: <blu0-smtp63808454ff81a707852239d8...@phx.gbl> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; format=flowed Hi Derek I did do some repairs to that area. Hence I am sure it isn't balsa in there. I'd be astounded if they used a balsa core in that area, it would be a pretty inappropriate choice... Graham Collins Secret Plans C&C 35-III #11 On 2013-10-12 9:22 AM, Derek Leck wrote: > Yeah I was told it could be either but understand you had one of these boats and wasn't it you who told me about you repairs to the same? > > : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : > > Derek Leck : : Account Manager > METZGERS : : www.metzgers.com > 419.861.8611 x4824 : : fax: 419.861.3299 > > Get Involved! > http://www.metzgers.com/social-media > On Oct 12, 2013, at 8:08 AM, "Graham Collins" <cnclistforw...@hotmail.com> wrote: >> Hi Derek (s) >> I can tell you it is not a balsa core, the keel sump under the mast >> step is filled with a high density foam of some sort. Still smells bad tho' >> >> Graham Collins >> Secret Plans >> C&C 35-III #11 >> >>> On 2013-10-12 8:49 AM, Derek Leck wrote: >>> What a coincidence Derek. My name is Derek and I have the exact same boat and exact same problem. Apparently our boats have a defective keel sump. This is the area under the mast step. What I have learned is that there is a balsa wood core within the keel sump area. After years of use, especially the stresses of racing, grounding etc. the fiberglass structure of the keel sump becomes soft. Now here comes the part you really don't want to hear. When this sump area gets weak the entire load of your rig, mast weight, stay tension, sailing loads etc, are no longer dispersed. Instead, all this force is directed in a very vulnerable area which is where the keel stub meets the hull. When you pull the boat you will most likely find a crack in your hull in this area. Just in front of the keel. This is why you are getting water in the bilge. The nasty water is due to the balsa wood core rotting. I know it can smell terrible! >>> >>> The fix is substantial and that exterior crack is the least of our worries. ( This year will be the third attempt to correct my issue). Previous attempts were a wast of time since they were merely cosmetic. As I understand the keel will need to be dropped, keel sump area has to be cut out and rebuilt. The entire area beneath the mast step should be reinforced with additional glass work and possibly aluminum or stainless plates. My boat comes out this Monday and we'll find out exactly the extent of damages and cost to repair. >>> >>> I will keep you informed of my progress and I would like to hear about yours. Feel free to reach out to me anytime. >>> >>> Good luck! >>> >>> P.S. Love my boat!!!!! (When it's not leaking). >>> >>> >>> >>> : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : >>> >>> Derek Leck : : Account Manager >>> METZGERS : : www.metzgers.com<http://www.metzgers.com> >>> 419.861.8611 x4824 : : fax: 419.861.3299 >>> [http://www.metzgers.com/misc/EmailSig.jpg]<http://www.metzgers.com/ >>> social-media> >>> >>> On Oct 12, 2013, at 12:36 AM, "Derek Stanger" <derek.stan...@yahoo.ca<mailto:derek.stan...@yahoo.ca>> wrote: >>> >>> Hello to all. My first post. >>> >>> I'm the new owner of a previously well loved C&C 33 mkii 1985. I'm going through I think the normal new boat challenges/headaches/expenses...but in particular a couple that I'd like some advice on: >>> >>> 1. Upon cleaning a really smelly,slimy bilge today (salt water, Vancouver BC) I noticed water spraying into the bilge from an old screw hole (low in the bilge, on forward side, used for holding bilge line). It stopped spraying/dribbling after approx. 10 min (and a bit of a panic). I'm assuming the "putty" fill (as shown in the owners manual) forward of the bilge wall might have voids that fill with the raising water in the bilge? When the bilge is emptied the water forward has some head to it and comes back into the bilge. Does this all make sense? Should I be concerned? What can I do? >>> >>> 2. With winter arriving, I've been trying to plug into shore power. Unfortunately our service is only 15 Amps. All I have running is a smart charger (drawing 5 amps at 120V) and a saucer heater drawing 0.7 amps. The breaker on the shore panel keeps tripping. I checked the charger by plugging it in direct...and all fine. I bought a new cable with a more positive connection to the pigtail. To no avail. So, I think I have a problem on the boat. Any suggestions? >>> >>> Thanks. Any thoughts appreciated. >>> >>> Derek Stanger >>> _______________________________________________ >>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com<mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2013 13:40:55 +0000 (UTC) From: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> To: "Dennis C." <capt...@yahoo.com>, cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List singlehanding bigger boats Message-ID: <951499273.2185718.1381585255270.javamail.r...@sz0179a.westchester.pa.mail.c omcast.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Funny, I just did it Tuesday. I installed a Harken camcleat to my mast for the main halyard so I can control it there for raising and flaking and reefing. Positioned it so a tug from the cockpit pulls the line free from the camcleat. I am thinking of adding another for the spin halyard and maybe the jib halyard. You just need the Harken parts, the right length #10 flat head screws, the right sized drill bit and tap, some lanacote. I like the pocket sized tap and drill sets from Harbor Freight that have 6 common sizes w bits in a little plastic case. Harken camcleat 150 Harken mast adapter plate 438 or Harken spacer 295 (can be used instead of plate if you shape base to fit mast curve) It was something I wanted to do for years. Bought the parts last March during the Defender Sale and just got around to it in Oct. It has rained here eversince so I haven't tried it out sailing, but it worked well at the dock. Chuck Resolute 1990 C&C 34R Atlantic City, NJ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dennis C." <capt...@yahoo.com> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2013 5:09:56 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List singlehanding bigger boats Antoine, I agree with much of your comment. There is a way to have halyards run back to the cockpit but also operate them at the mast. Simply install a camcleat and horn cleat on the mast a bit offset from the path of the halyard from its exit to the turning block at the base of the mast. When in "mast" mode, you can hoist or lower the sail, temporarily stop it with the camcleat or more permanently stop it with the horn cleat. When in "cockpit" mode the halyard will exit the mast, run to the turning block and back to the cockpit. Or, one can hoist the sail, stop it with the camcleat, return to the cockpit and pull the slack out and stop the halyard with a cabintop rope clutch. With a little configuration tweaking, If done correctly, the camcleat can be position such that the line pops out of it when the slack is taken out. The line is then free to allow the sail to be dropped from the cockpit. I've sailed on boats with this arrangement for spinnaker halyards and it seems to work well. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Friday, October 11, 2013 10:52 PM, Antoine Rose <antoine.r...@videotron.ca> wrote: It seems that many recommend bringing back the lines to the cockpit for single handling. Well, allow me to trow a little rock in the pound and challenge a bit that idea. I too have single handed a lot and personally, I prefer to have my lines at the mast. I know, it goes against common wisdom and what many (most) think. Well, I think it is simpler and easier this way. - Hoisting: when was the last time it was easy for you to hoist the main, without a winch? When the halyard is on the mast, you have a straight pull. One block at the top of the mast and that's it. Pulling the rope down is efficient, it goes with your weight. Bringing the line back to the cockpit mean adding a block at the base of the mast, another deviation block somewhere on the roof, then the line goes through a rope clutch and then around a winch. Did you ever figured out how much friction all that is? The result is mainsails that required to be hoisted with the help of the winch almost half of the way. I raise mine to the top by hand and the winch is used only for what it was meant for, adding proper tension. - My lines are neatly tidied up at the mast and I have minimal ropes in the cockpit, only the two genoa sheets and the main, that's it. - Reefing, unless you have a single line systems that works very well (go back to my comment on multiple friction induce by too many turns in the line), you have to go the mast to pull down the main and insert the eye in the hook and lay down properly the main on the boom before pulling and tensioning the reef line. - The fundamental idea is to make it the easiest it can possibly be, so that, if your brain says "it maybe a good idea to reef", you go without any hesitation. The easiest it is, the more frequent you'll adjust your sail to match the weather. On my boat, everything is done at the mast. When I want to reef, I ease the main sheet and then go to the base of the mast where I do everything without moving: the halyard loosening, pulling down the main to the hook, tensioning again the halyard, adjusting the downhaul, pulling and tensioning the reef line, replace a bit the sail and go back to the cockpit to readjust the sheet. Usually, when I'm in hurry in a race, I don't loose more than a minute for the reefing. When I drop the main (I've installed home made lazy jacks), I again go to the mast to let go the halyard and I'm right there where the action is, to lay down properly the main. - I've seen many boats where the halyards goes back to the cockpit. Yes, but when singlehanded, you have to go to the mast to pull down the main down to the hook, go back to the cockpit to tension again the halyard, go back to the mast to pull the reef line and then back to the cockpit again. We often say it's safer to get the lines back to the cockpit, well, it is not safe if you have to do two back and forth to the mast for a simple reefing. In the end, before choosing your religion ( to the mast or to the cockpit), take some time to really think it through, do some simulation, picture yourself in bad weather and make your choice. But, no matter what you decide, make it as easy as possible, with the least possibilities of something going wrong. Antoine (Cousin, C&C 30) Le 2013-10-11 ? 12:23, Patrick H. Wesley a ?crit : <blockquote> On a smaller boat that doesn't have autohelm the other things I would add to Chuck's list are a breastline for quick tie-up in docking, and learning how to heave-to. I often singlehand and the latter has allowed me do many things I forgot to do before setting out, or to use the head, or reef the main. Incidentally, many thanks for those who replied to my earlier post about crossing the Georgia Strait, I successfully did that, solo, few weeks ago and the comments helped. Strong wind warnings, gale force warnings and even a waterspout advisory! I told my family that I was back, safe and sound but there had been a few clenched sphincter moments. One of my sons-in-law does not have English as his first language and he told me that he had to check with Google as which part of the boat that was! Patrick Wesley, The Boat, C & C 24 ? Sent from Mailbox for iPad On Fri, Oct 11, 2013 at 6:50 AM, Chuck S < cscheaf...@comcast.net > wrote: <blockquote> FWIW, I enjoy singlehanding my boat but pick my days. The sails are not the biggest challenge. For me, it's always been docking. Docking can be challenging in a crosswind or in strong current, and I learn something everytime I go out. The bow of a sailboat wants to spin downwind as soon as she loses forward way. This year I started "backing in" when the wind is up, and that proved a better alternative. The bow follows the keel that way. Before docking, I rig my fenders and have lines bow, stern, and spring, coiled at the gate, ready to take myself onto the float, or hand to someone else. The tricky part is stopping the boat alongside the float and getting from behind the wheel thru the gate onto the float with docklines in hand, and secure them before the boat reacts to wind and current and the bow spins. I think I've learned a lot docking the boat for ten years, and the only scrapes occurred from dockside helpers who tend to pull the bow line in too tight. I feel docking is still the most challenging aspect of singlehanding. The more you know your boat and the more practice you get, the better you get at timing your turns and controlling your approach speed, and the easier it gets. Having the jib on a furler is a must and some days you can sail with just the jib and not have to deal with the mainsail cover or flaking the sail. I use an autohelm to steer the boat and raise the mainsail by hand, using the winch only for the last few inches. When I bought my boat there were two frozen sheaves for the main halyard that forced us to use the winch. I didn't find the problem until the following summer and then I freed the sheave at the mast deck collar and the sheave in the deck organizer and lubed the track and now anyone can raise the sail without the winch. I plan to install lazy jacks, but meanwhile I have to wrestle the big sail onto the boom and reflake it at the dock, before putting on the cover. Occassionally I have my son along and one lowers the halyard in a controlled way so the other can flake and tie the sail on, but lazy jacks would make the job a little easier. Summary: you'll get used to the bigger boat so buy the biggest you can afford, don't forget the annual costs of slip fees, winter storage, insurance. Research and know the value of things. One new sail costs more than a whole instrument package, or a good feathering prop. Setups for singlehanding should include good roller furling, lines led to cockpit, a reliable engine and good engine controls (remember docking), lazy jacks. If you're handy, things can also be added to an otherwise good boat. I added the Harken furler and autohelm and many cruising amenities to my barebones racer, but your boat should include those things. A professional survey will run around $600, so presurvey a few boats yourself before going to that step so you only have to pay that fee on one boat. Happy hunting. Chuck Resolute 1990 C&C 34R Atlantic City, NJ _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com </blockquote> _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com </blockquote> _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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