As Robert says, there are several products that are now available. Beneteau
uses the following products to bond the plastic ports into their hulls.
EMFI products BODO MOLLER products
Degreaser Degreaser 1001 Degreaser VP 04604
Primer Primer 34024A Primer 5404
Adhesive PB adhesive E 2700 A & B adhesive
I used the EMFI products to replace a hull port in a Bene 361. The one part
adhesive came in a plastic tube like a sausage. I poked a hole in the
"sausage", squeezed out a bead of adhesive and set the lens by holding it in
place for 10 minutes.
Other boats have glued in ports in the hulls, Catalina for one.
And finally, here are links to pages recommending which 3M product or Life
Product to use for different applications. I suggest bookmarking them.
<http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_EU/EU-Marine/MarineSupplies/Solutions/BoatRepair/GeneralBoatRepairs/SealantAdhesiveGuide/>
<http://cncphotoalbum.com/technical/sealant_usage.htm> Thanks, Stu
Note that 3M suggests 3M 5400FC for bonding plastic windows.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
>________________________________
> From: Robert Abbott <robertabb...@eastlink.ca>
>To: billb...@sbcglobal.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Sent: Saturday, September 7, 2013 8:09 AM
>Subject: Stus-List Salon Portlight Window Replacement
>
>
>
>I am not so sure people are 'resistant' to using Plexus to rebed portlights as
>much as there are other products today that can possibly do the job as well
>and are easier to use. Plexus requires a special 'gun' to apply the 2-part
>adhesive which is not readily available to all.
>
>And think about how long a windshield remains in place in our
automobiles. And the windshields are considered a 'structural'
component on vehicles, at least on my Acura TL it is. Last year,
I replaced my car windshield and I asked the guys what adhesive
they were using to rebed it.......turns out is was a Sikaflex
product....the auto glass shop said it was very similar to
Sikaflex 295UV except it had a much faster cure time (hours
instead of days).....understandable.
>
>The reason my portlights were leaking was because the original
Plexus had dried out....it was as hard as resin when I was
removing it. As with my car windshiled, I am hoping the Sikaflex
295UV doesn't do that on my portlights.
>
>I kept a 'step by step' version of my 2010 portlight project if
anyone wants it.
>
>Bob Abbott
>AZURA
>C&C 32 - 84
>Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
>
>
>On 2013/09/06 7:38 PM, Bill Bina wrote:
>
>I've never really understood why so many people are resistant to using Plexus
>to rebed the portlights on their C&C. The people who designed the boat didn't
>pick Plexus out of a hat. They did their homework, and voted for something
>they thought was appropriate. TIME has proven that Plexus was a very good
>choice. No other alternate has ever been tested as long, or on as many C&C's
>as Plexus, although I've read many reports of failures trying something else
>just to save a few bucks. Plexus worked well, and has held up as well or
>better than any adhesive could be expected to hold up. If you have an
>adhesive/sealant that has lasted 25 years or more ON A BOAT, why on earth
>would you do all the work of removal & installation with anything else? Seems
>like foolishness to mess with obvious success. Same goes for using Butyl for
>the hull/deck joint. It is time-proven more thoroughly than any other
>alternative. If Plexus and Butyl were known to be problematic, or
short-lived, I could understand looking for an improvement.
>>
>>Bill Bina
>>
>>On 9/6/2013 6:13 PM, Brent Driedger wrote:
>>
>>Pulling off the old windows can often be the worst part. Unless they are
>>falling out already, expect some gelcoat to come with it. Repair this
>>properly so the adhesive can grip.
>>>Plexus was my choice and the agent rented the gun too. It's not cheap. Stuff
>>>at $35 bucks a cartridge and it took 1.7 to do my 27-5s long windows.
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
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>
>_______________________________________________
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>
>_______________________________________________
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