On the J-80 I race on, we always hoist the spinnaker from the port side. It is just easier to do it that way (and most courses are set up for port roundings) than have someone on the bow of a light boat moving the strings around.
And, on sprit boats, the gybes are on the outside of the forestay - you must let the chute float out in front and then haul like crazy to bring it all around. It does go inside of its tack attachment out at the end of the sprit. Some of the folks with cruising chutes try to bring the chute through outside of the forestay, but inside of the tack attachment point. That is a lot of nylon to haul through a rather skinny (maybe a foot?) area. We have enough trouble getting the thing through the seven feet we have on the sprit boat. I would put some sort of a block at the top of the mast above or in front of the internal sheaves, so you can keep the spinnaker from getting tangled in the other halyards. My 30 has small 'ears' on each front corner of the masthead casting and that's where the spinnaker halyard block is attached. For that reason, my spinnaker halyard is external to the mast. Gary ----- Original Message ----- From: Tim Goodyear To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 9:14 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Asymmetrical spinnaker setup on a 30 mk2 Sebastian, the 35-3 (at least my one) has four forward halyards; two jib / genoa halyards below the forestay and two spinnaker halyards above. If you aren't gybing your asym too much I would not be too worried about using your spare jib halyard, but it will chafe more, and you need to ensure they aren't twisted at hoist or douse. Outside the forestay gybes should not be a problem in your light wind scenario but you should try to hoist and douse on the same side. Tim Mojito C&C 35-3 Branford, CT On Aug 13, 2013, at 8:48 PM, Sébastien Lemieux <s.lemi...@umontreal.ca> wrote: My mast has two sheaves, both slightly below the forestay. The boat came with two halyards forward of the mast, both in good condition. I use one for the genoa (on a furler) and plan to use the second one for the asym. I believe I have no choice but use the asym as a genoa and gybe between forestay and mast. By looking at the rigs on sailboatdata.com, it seems to me that both the 39 and the 35-3 also have a similar setup (all sheaves below the forestay). The reason I mention the use in light air was that I was concerned about the weight of the sheets. I'm currently using 5/8 sta-set as genoa sheets and although they are nice in the hand they really pull down on the sail when broad reaching in light air. I'm not looking for sheets that are under-specced but might be willing to pay a bit more to get a lighter sheet. Just for reference, the document I'm mentioning is here: http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/spinnaker/spinnaker.htm cheers, Sébastien Lemieux Merlot X - C&C 30 mk2 1987 Lake Champlain On 2013-08-13, at 14:24 , Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> wrote: I agree with Bill about the halyard and blocks. 70 feet of 5/16 is plenty. You can use Sta-Set and spend the rest on a new halyard. I flew my asym wing and wing last week in light air. Boat speed went from 2.3 knots to 3.3 knots after I gybed the main! Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 2:19 PM, Bill Coleman <colt...@verizon.net> wrote: I have never heard of anyone using genoa halyards for an A sail, but maybe you could if you tacked it like a genoa. We always jibe ours out and around the headstay, inverting it. Usually they are on a pennant, a few feet off the tack. If you have an anchor roller that is substantial, it is best to get them away from the forestay, but of course only if you have it on a spinnaker halyard above everything, not on genny halyards. And yes, you need snatch blocks on the toe rail just like a regular spinnaker. Famous Last Words: "Will only Use this sail in light air" Always have an exit plan for heavy air! Bill Coleman C&C 39 -----Original Message----- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sébastien Lemieux Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 2:11 PM To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Asymmetrical spinakker setup on a 30 mk2 Hello, I have an asym spi left from the PO that I would like to setup. I've read through the DIY document on the photo album site and from this I assume that I will need to use it from an genoa halyard (both sheaves exit just slightly under the forestay). I've got a few questions left: The manual of the 30mk2 specifies 70' sheets for a symmetrical spi, should I go with the same length for an asym? What should be the length of the line pulling the tack (what is the name of that line?)? I will use this sail only in light wind, what type of rope would you recommend for the sheets and tack line? I'd like to try a single braid for that purpose, anyone has experience with the Control DPX from Samson (in 5/16, $1.44/ft at APS, 2.9 lbs/100ft). The halyard is already in place. Also, am I correct that I will need to shackle a turning block on each of the aluminum piece at the end of the rail in order to lead the sheets fairly to the winch? Thanks in advance! -- Sébastien Lemieux Merlot X - C&C 30 mk2 1987 Lake Champlain _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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