When I was awards chair for a major regatta, I went to a Mikasa store in an 
outlet mall.  Caught a bunch of nice glassware on closeout at 60% off.  Found 
styles that had large, medium and small bowls, etc.  Had trophy shop make 
engraved labels and stuck them on.  Was relatively cheap.

As a boatowner, I like glass trophies.  I hate silver trophies.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA





>________________________________
> From: "wwadjo...@aol.com" <wwadjo...@aol.com>
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Friday, August 2, 2013 10:51 AM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List awards
> 
>
>
>Ok guys, how about some ideas for inexpensive ( I know that is relative term) 
>sailing awards.  Our budget just got axed at the yacht club.
>
>
>Bill Waker
>Evening Star
>C & C 36
>Pentwater, Mi
>
>
>Sent from my HTC
>
>----- Reply message -----
>From: "Ron Kaye" <ronkaye...@gmail.com>
>To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>Cc: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>Subject: Stus-List head replacement
>Date: Fri, Aug 2, 2013 10:59 AM
>
>Bev and Bob,  We just did this on our 35/3 last weekend.  We originally got a 
>replacement Jabsco pump to put on the existing bowl - it was supposed to fit 
>"all years" models.   It didn't. Four bolt attachment to a three bolt 
>connection.  Blah!  So we simply got an entire new Jabsco from West.     Two 
>of the existing mounting bolts (I believe they were "hanger bolts") broke off 
>when taking off the old head.  The new base did not fit over the previous 
>ones. So then we did what you did and tried to find access from underneath for 
>threaded bolts.  Not available.  Talked to a guy I know with a 35/1.  It 
>turned out to be simple deal:  There is solid wood infer the fiberglass there. 
>The answer is to use SS lag screws and washers.  You need four.  We used 5/16" 
>x 2".  West Marine.  Just screw them through the glass into the wood.  I cut 
>the two old hangar bolts off with a hack saw (try not to saw the surrounding 
>glass - this is the hardest part - a grinder
 would have been better).  Set the new base on and marked two holes in front.  
Take it off and drill a smaller hole as you would for a wood screw.  The 
fiberglass layer must be bored out to the diameter of the screw (5/16") or it 
will start cracking. So do that just at the top of the holes.   Set the head in 
place and ratchet down the front two until it can't wiggle and mark the rear 
ones.  Remove, repeat the drilling and don't forget the washers and a thin bead 
if silicone sealant under the base.    Worked like a charm for us newbies.  Ron 
& Lisa   On Aug 2, 2013, at 10:12 AM, "broo...@aol.com" <broo...@aol.com> 
wrote: > Plan to replace CW with a Jabsco Twist and Lock.   What suggestions do 
listers have for bolting this in place. There does not seem to be any access 
under the platform the current head is on. Toggle bolts have been suggested.  
Or creating an inspection port for placement of nuts/washers.  Is there 
anything under there I need to worry
 about damaging?  Thanks.
>  
> Bev Genader Bob Morgan
> C&C 37
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