Bill,
Contact Evan at Long Island Awards Gallery in Syosset, NY
(http://www.liawardgallery.com). I know it's far from you, but their prices
just can't be touched.
I've used them for years. You can get a nice set of first, second and
thirds, in decreasing sizes, for about $100-$150 total, including engraving.
All the best,
Edd
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
On Aug 2, 2013, at 11:51 AM, "wwadjo...@aol.com" <wwadjo...@aol.com> wrote:
> Ok guys, how about some ideas for inexpensive ( I know that is relative term)
> sailing awards. Our budget just got axed at the yacht club.
>
> Bill Waker
> Evening Star
> C & C 36
> Pentwater, Mi
>
> Sent from my HTC
>
> ----- Reply message -----
> From: "Ron Kaye" <ronkaye...@gmail.com>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Stus-List head replacement
> Date: Fri, Aug 2, 2013 10:59 AM
>
> Bev and Bob,
>
> We just did this on our 35/3 last weekend. We originally got a replacement
> Jabsco pump to put on the existing bowl - it was supposed to fit "all years"
> models.
>
> It didn't. Four bolt attachment to a three bolt connection. Blah!
>
> So we simply got an entire new Jabsco from West.
>
> Two of the existing mounting bolts (I believe they were "hanger bolts") broke
> off when taking off the old head. The new base did not fit over the previous
> ones.
>
> So then we did what you did and tried to find access from underneath for
> threaded bolts. Not available. Talked to a guy I know with a 35/1. It
> turned out to be simple deal: There is solid wood infer the fiberglass
> there. The answer is to use SS lag screws and washers. You need four. We
> used 5/16" x 2". West Marine. Just screw them through the glass into the
> wood.
>
> I cut the two old hangar bolts off with a hack saw (try not to saw the
> surrounding glass - this is the hardest part - a grinder would have been
> better). Set the new base on and marked two holes in front. Take it off and
> drill a smaller hole as you would for a wood screw. The fiberglass layer
> must be bored out to the diameter of the screw (5/16") or it will start
> cracking. So do that just at the top of the holes.
>
> Set the head in place and ratchet down the front two until it can't wiggle
> and mark the rear ones. Remove, repeat the drilling and don't forget the
> washers and a thin bead if silicone sealant under the base.
>
> Worked like a charm for us newbies.
>
> Ron & Lisa
>
> On Aug 2, 2013, at 10:12 AM, "broo...@aol.com" <broo...@aol.com> wrote:
>
> > Plan to replace CW with a Jabsco Twist and Lock. What suggestions do
> > listers have for bolting this in place. There does not seem to be any
> > access under the platform the current head is on. Toggle bolts have been
> > suggested. Or creating an inspection port for placement of nuts/washers.
> > Is there anything under there I need to worry about damaging? Thanks.
> >
> > Bev Genader Bob Morgan
> > C&C 37
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