Most important factor is to properly torque the keelbolts. Loosen them and
then torque them to 350 ft lbs dry or 10% less if lubricated.
That done, the keel should not flex on the keel stub and you can then glass the
hull/keel joint.
I dug out all soft and crumbly material and filled the shallow gap with a epoxy
and chopped carbon fiber. Then I
glassed the joint with biaxial tape.
You may notice a small separation at the aft end of the joint also. This area
of the joint is a bit far from any keel bolts and thus subject to cracking,
particularly if you have a hydraulic backstay adjuster and over adjuster it.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
>________________________________
> From: JC Raha <jcr...@cox.net>
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 7:24 PM
>Subject: Stus-List What is used for the keel hull joint
>
>
>
>
>Hi to all;
>
>Hope you are enjoying your windward
travels....
>
>I have a 1970 Redwing 35 (RW7017)...C&C 35 MK
I.
>
>We are still on the hard curing a case of boat pox at
and to approximately 18" below the water line.
>
>Before I address the keel/hull joint I would like to know
what has been tried and works.
>
>The keel/hull joint towards the bow appears to be
filled with a soft compound...
>
>The keel/hull joint appears to be tight..she
does not smile...
>
>I have read several blogs that talk about glassing the
joint solid..seems like the joint really wants to flex.
>
>The approach would be to dig out what I can and fill with
3M 4000 .
>
>Any thoughts?
>
>Enjoy!!!!
>
>Chris Raha
>
>"CIRCE"
>C&C 35 MKI
>Yorktown, Va.
>
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>
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