Hi David
Now that we know it is the cable, spraying may or may not work. Most cables have a plastic cap at the termination of the sheathing which if it is still intact will inhibit lubricant actually getting inside the sheathing. There is also the issue of how to get the lubricant far enough into the sheathing to actually reach the area that has gunk or is corroded. Another issue may be how convoluted the cable routing is. Ours has quite a tortuous path with a smallish diameter 180 degree bend which creates a fair amount of friction and makes it hard to work. So far no problems but am considering replacing it in the near future. We had a similar issue with our shutoff cable. Wound up removing the cable, hanging it vertically, pulled inside wire as much as we dared, insert oil, worked cable, repeat process, let hang vertically for a few days, repeat process = problem solved. Best of luck John and Maryann Legacy III 1982 C&C 34 Noank, CT From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 9:38 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission on Universal Thanks for all the advice. I took it apart yesterday and the transmission fluid was fine and the arm moved reasonably smoothly. It is remarkably close to the bottom and the cotter pin seems to actually brush the fiberglass, but not an impediment. The cable was definitely stiff to move when detached. I sprayed some Boeshield into it as best I could and let it run down into the housing, but it did not have much effect. It is really hard to do the same at the other end, but I may try. I found something called Spraysnake on Ebay that is a 2 meter length of the red tubing that attaches to spray cans. With that, I think I can get to the top of the cable without disassembling and the lubricant should run down the interior of the cable. Otherwise, it looks like I have a cable replacement in my future work list. Thanks for the help. Dave On Jun 16, 2013, at 8:55 AM, Edd Schillay <e...@schillay.com> wrote: David, The easiest way to tell if it's the cable or lubrication is to have someone down below and physically push/pull the lever on the engine into forward, neutral and reverse. If the engine reacts quickly, you can be pleased to know your transmission is fine and you just have a cabling issue. If it is a cabling issue, there are ways to lubricate a cable, but the best way is to remove it -- and if you remove it, it's actually easier to replace it. Good luck. All the best, Edd ------------------------------- Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise NCC-1701-B C&C 37+ | City Island, NY www.StarshipSailing.com <http://www.starshipsailing.com/> ------------------------------- 914.332.4400 | Office 914.332.1671 | Fax 914.774.9767 | Mobile ------------------------------- Sent via iPhone 5 On Jun 16, 2013, at 8:20 AM, David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com> wrote: I had trouble starting my Universal M-430 yesterday and eventually realized that it was having trouble turning over the engine because it was actually in gear when I thought it was in neutral (plus my batteries were weak after sitting for 3 weeks). This is the second time this has happened, and it is because the shift lever is very sticky and hard to move, so it is very hard to tell where neutral is. Is this likely the cable needing replacement, or is there something on the engine/transmission I can lubricate or tweak to try and make it smoother? Thanks- Dave David Knecht Aries 1990 C&C 34+ New London, CT <pastedGraphic.tiff> _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com <http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/> CnC-List@cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com David Knecht, Ph.D. Professor and Head of Microscopy Facility Department of Molecular and Cell Biology U-3125 91 N. Eagleville Rd. University of Connecticut Storrs, CT 06269 860-486-2200 860-486-4331 (fax)
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