Danny Forget the screws and the corrosion worries: just use 3M 5200 and glue them on, common consensus here says the 5200 bond will never break... lol
Dwight Veinot C&C 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS -----Original Message----- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of djhaug...@juno.com Sent: May 6, 2013 5:56 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Installing teak handrails Okay, so, any opinions on Bronze wood screws vs SS and if SS 304 or 316. It seems the 316 is bit more brittle. 304 is less corrosion resistant but stronger and the bronze offers strength and corrosion resistance but is more money... Then there is that little issue that SS has when it gets no oxygen, Crevice corrosion I believe is the term. Isn't that an issue where the screw penetrates the deck? Is that about right? It looks like 304, for example #14 x 2" is about $60 for 100 and 316 is about $75- $80 and the bronze goes up to $95... Danny ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Martin DeYoung <mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Installing teak handrails Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 17:02:46 +0000 If you have balsa cored decks the extra time to seal the bolt hole with epoxy is a good investment. Martin Calypso 1970 C&C 43 Seattle -----Original Message----- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of djhaug...@juno.com Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 6:38 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Installing teak handrails Hello again, As i'm getting closer to installing my new handrails, I have grown concern regarding the bedding compound. My old handrails were lag screwed from the bottom. I like this approach as it makes installing finished handrails a much less time consuming job. There would be no need for plugging, sanding and re-finishing the plugs after installation. I wanted to re-bed them using the method described on http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware. However, the more I think about it, using the Butyl tape doesn't lend itself very well to using lag screws. It seems to me you don't want the bolt/screw turning, as it would grab the Butyl and pull it out of place. You know, that stuff likes to stick to itself and everything else. Wouldn't turning the lag bolt mess up the nice cone shaped blob you place for the countersink area? ... Am I overthinking this? ...should I go back to jolly 'ol 5200? ...should I reconsider through bolts and plugs and then have to deal with refinishing the plug areas. I wouldn't mind but, the need to re-coat 8 times at 1 time per 24hrs really makes it tedious. Especially, when it takes me 40 minutes to get to the boat. Thats not much fun after work every day. 1 1/2 driving for 20 minutes of coating, not to mention the gas...LOL As always, I appreciate any and all opinions and insights, Danny Lolita 1973 Viking 33 Westport Point, MA _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2241 / Virus Database: 3162/5802 - Release Date: 05/06/13 _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
