I've been told that bottom paint (particularly ablative paint) has a hard time sticking to cured 2000E, even after sanding. So it is best to apply a thin coat of hard bottom paint to the last coat of 2000E before it is fully cured. The bottom paint bonds with the barrier coat and acts as a primer for whatever you plan to put on.
After you apply the final coat of 2000E, let it cure to the point that it is no longer tacky. If you touch the suface with a knuckle, you shoul leave a slight impression, but no 2000E should stick to the skin. Apply a thin coat of any hard bottom paint that is compatable with what you plan to use for bottom paint. It can be relatively cheap, low copper paint because it is there as a primer and not as antifouling. After the 2000E is fully cured, paint away. I used whatever Trinidad the yard still had - I think it might have been green. The off color will serve as a signal coat when the red Ultra SR that I use for bottom paint wears away. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear Sent: Friday, January 11, 2013 11:47 AM To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Barrier Coating after Soda Blasting I was advised to apply one coat of your chosen antifouling (Trinidad hard antifouling was what I used as the base and have applied Vivid over that since) before the final coat cures completely, otherwise you will have to sand to get it to adhere to the epoxy. Tim Mojito 1984 C&C 35-3 Branford, CT
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