The brochures and drawings for the 33 that are on the Photo Album appear to be for an 80s vintage MK1, but there are photos of 70s vintage 33s on the album that make me suspect the deck arrangement is similar to what I have on my 25 and my 38.
On my boats there is a plywood bulkhead at the front of the v-berth that sets off a compartment in the stem of the boat. On both my boats this plywood bulkhead has an opening that allows access to this compartment in the stem from inside the boat. For my 25, the ground tackle is light enough that I keep it in a rode bag in a cockpit locker. Not so for the 38. My 38 is not a Landfall, so there is no hatch on the deck that would allow use of the stem compartment as a traditional anchor locker. The deck is solid fiberglass over a ¾ plywood core. One of the previous owners installed a hawse pipe in the deck above the stem compartment. The anchor rode was fed down through this hawse pipe and stored in the compartment forward of the v-berth. When I planned the installation of the windlass, the location of the hawse pipe was not suitable for the hole in the deck through which the windlass would drop rode and chain into the compartment. So I glassed it in and filled with slow cure West System epoxy thickened with high strength filler. I figured out the desired placement of the windlass and, using the installation template for the needed through deck holes, I laid out a pad that the windlass would be mounted on. The pad provides a flat mounting surface instead of a curved deck, and gives extra thickness to the deck. I sanded the3 deck to get a good bond, built a dam out of Play Dough to define the shape of the pad, and poured in slow cure West epoxy with high strength filler. Once the pad was cured, I sanded the top to make sure it was smooth for a good seal drilled the required holes per the template. So the windlass gypsy and wildcat get mounted on the top of the pad. I made a backing plate out of ¼ aluminum that is about 10 x 12, with a lip about 3 tall on the back edge that forms flush to the forward side of the bulkhead that forms the back of the stem compartment. When I bolted the above deck portion of the windlass to the motor/gearbox, it is bolted through the backing plate, the ¾ plywood that supports the deck, the deck, and the high strength epoxy pad. In addition, the backing plate is through bolted to the ½ plywood bulkhead inside the v-berth. My engineering sense tells me that should be strong enough to handle the loads on the windlass, but I have no long term proof. Time will tell. I used the relay supplied with the windlass, but installed only a wireless remote switch for the control no foot switches or cockpit control.. The wiring was less complex and the runs shorter, there are fewer holes in the deck to leak,and the wireless remote allows me to control the windlass from the helm since I single hand the boat. I do need to stand on the helm seat or a cockpit seat when motoring forward in order to be able to see the rode as I retrieve it. If someone else is aboard, one of us can steer while the other goes forward with the remote to operate the windlass. One mistake I did make was not tapering sufficiently the hole through which the rode falls into the storage compartment. The hole should look sort of like a funnel with the narrow end up. I sealed the core but left the sealer sort of rough, and the hole is only tapered at about 30 degrees. The chain falls straight down, but the new rode I used is pushed forward (more or less horizontally) by the gypsy and has had a tendency to jam up on the sealer. That can cause the grip of the gypsy on the rode to be reduced, and when it happens I need to reach into the compartment through the v-bert bulkhead to clear the jam. It doesnt happen often, but it is a PITA when it does. Im hoping that the new rode will soften up some and fall into the compartment, but I need to go back and increase the taper of the hole to more than 45 degrees on the forward side and reseal the deck core. So far my arrangement is working OK about 95% of the time. And frankly Im a bit happy that I dont have a proper chain locker with a lid. Thats partly because it reduces the amount of water that can get in, but also I dont want to try to add stiffening to the hull and deck to make up for the elimination of the ¾ plywood under my current deck. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of djhaug...@juno.com Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2012 10:18 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Charging System Advice - Windlass installation Rick, Putting a battery up front was my first thought. So, you just hook up the solar charger as needed? I already have a 15 watt charger I got from west marine last year. I have another question regarding rode. I don't have a locker up front and I don't want to add it this year, could I use the Vertical drum to just retrieve the anchor line on deck. I know it isn't ideal but, it would give me a better experience than pulling the anchor by hand... I'd like to add a locker later it's just I have other things I'd like to take care of this year and get in the water before august! Danny Lolita 1973 Viking 33 Westport Point, MA ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Rick Brass" <rickbr...@earthlink.net> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Charging System Advice - Windlass installation Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2012 01:43:55 -0500 Danny; I have a windlass and an Electra-San installed in the front of my 38. When I did the installation I elected to install a deep cycle group 24 battery in a box under the v-berth to power both systems. Its an arrangement Ive seen on a number of cruising boats that have passed through on the way south, and seemed to be a better choice than powering these systems off my 440AH house bank. I currently recharge the battery with a 5 watt solar panel purchased from West Marine. Heres why I went with the dedicated battery up front: On my 38 the run from the house bank to the windlass would be around 65 feet. My boat is about the recommended max size for the 1000 watt windlass I installed. The windlass draws 50 amps during normal anchor retrieval, but has an 80 amp breaker for maximum load. For 80 amps over 65 feet I would need to run 1/0 or 2/0 cables to get 3% voltage drop or 2 AWG cable to get 10%. Running 2/0 cables through cabinets and under the sole would be a bitch, plus the cable would cost almost $450. Even 2 AWG cable would cost over $300, and routing it would not be pleasant. Having the 24 DS battery forward allowed me to use short runs of 6 AWG cable, and was a simple routing with short cable runs. Total cost including the battery was about $150. Right now I use a solar panel to recharge the forward battery as needed. My long range plan is to install a Blue Sea automatic charge relay between the house bank and the forward battery. That way, when the engine is running or I plug into shore power, after the house bank is recharged the ACR will also charge the forward battery. Since the current flow will be based on the differential between house bank voltage and the voltage of the forward battery (less than 2 volts) the charge current should be 10 amps or less; the run between batteries is also shorter than the run to the windlass. So I can use 8 AWG or 6 AWG for the charging circuit, reduce the difficulty of running the wires, and probably get away for a cost of under $200 including the ACR. YMMV, but Id suggest that you consider putting a small battery up forward to power your windlass. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of djhaug...@juno.com Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2012 1:58 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Charging System Advice As a side note, I'm planning to install a windlass. Should I install another battery for that? If I'm going to go to the trouble to install a battery up front, should I move all the house batteries to a better location from a ballast standpoint? I think the hardest part to that would be running #2 wire up and back. Danny Lolita 1973 Viking 33 Wesport Point, MA
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