Like Wally, I keep a piece of iron pipe on the boat for persuading through-hulls. I gave it a nice coat of Yamaha Outboard Motor Sparkly Blue since I had some and it looks more elegant sitting on the counter. I also periodically remove the drain fitting on the seacock, screw a zerk fitting in and shoot the valve full of grease. Valve has to be in the open position for this to work... I was using Lubriplate 130AA, since I had it on board for the Max Prop, but I find Lanocote to hang in much longer under constant immersion. You can break a seacock open for maintenance with the boat in the water, but it's wildly exciting. Have a tapered plug handy.
On 3 December 2012 17:02, Dennis C. <[email protected]> wrote: > For stuck metal valves, try removing the hose and spraying PB Blaster into > the valve. Set a portable light next to it for a bit of heat. Let it sit a > few days then try to work it loose. > > Dennis C. > Touché 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > [email protected] > -- Jim Watts Paradigm Shift C&C 35 Mk III Victoria, BC
_______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com [email protected]
