Hi Art,

This looks like the vacuum bag technique will be the ideal clamping method. Just google it for ideas. I have an old refrig compressor that is waiting for a project but nothing coming up soon for me yet.

When you're finished you can tell the crew ,"It's a work of Art." <insert thanks to grandpa for that one RIP>

        Cheerrs, Russ
        Sweet 35 mk-1

At 05:13 PM 06/11/2012, you wrote:
I build guitars and it is hard to clamp something in the middle of a guitar top or back. The solution is something they call a go bar deck. Were you use fiber glass rods wedged to apply pressure. If you have ever put sheetrock on a ceiling and used a 2x4 wedged against the floor to hold it up. If you injected glue in the blister then put on waxpaper and a square of plywood and a wooden rod wedged against the opposite wall to apply pressure. A telescoping rod or something spring loaded would work to. If you can't visualize this google luthiers go-bar deck. Good Luck- Bill Sterling -Taffy Girl

In a message dated 11/6/2012 5:56:26 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, sam.c.sal...@gmail.com writes: If it was my boat, I think I'd try to inject glue (waterproof Titebond? or epoxy) into the blister with a syringe. You can buy glue syringes at Lee Valley:
<http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=20003&cat=1,110,42967&ap=1>http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=20003&cat=1,110,42967&ap=1
But I suspect they're available all over - Harbour Freight? as your in the US.
My first thought would be to slit the blister with a box cutter - this would let air escape but still allow for an invisible join; inject the glue/epoxy; put pressure on the blister with some sort of wooden strut across the cabin. Put wax paper under the strut so you don't glue it to the bulkhead!

sam
C&C 26  Liquorice
Ghost Lake  Alberta


On 2012-11-06, at 2:22 PM, <mailto:wster1...@aol.com>wster1...@aol.com wrote:

I think the iron method may work. The heat will soften the glue and the iron would press it down. There is no way to clamp it flat on the wall. Good luck-Bill Sterling

In a message dated 11/6/2012 3:54:23 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, <mailto:rothassocia...@verizon.net>rothassocia...@verizon.net writes:

I hope someone on the list may have a suggestion as to how to address/fix my problem.



Sometime during the last month or so, water must have gotten into the boat from the deck as yesterday while cleaning up below, I found several blisters/delamination of the teak veneer on the upper far port side of the forward bulkhead in the main cabin. This situation has developed since late August which was the last time I wiped down the bulkhead. I’m not sure where the water got in as, except for the handrail which is not exactly over the blistered area and where I have never had any leaks in the 20 years I’ve owned the boat, there aren’t any fittings, cleats, etc. on the cabin top over the bulkhead between the mast and the side of the cabin. The blisters are tear drop shaped, wider at the top where the bulkhead meets to top of the cabin and narrowing down to almost a point. They extend in from the side of the cabin about 8-10 inches and one or two of them are 6 inches long or so. The blisters are only on the aft side of the bulkhead close to the side of the cabin. There doesn’t seem to be any problem with the same area on the other side of the bulkhead in the head.



The area is dry now. Although I couldn’t reach to the very top of the bulkhead since the cabin liner is in the way, it appears that the plywood under the teak veneer is solid and there are no signs of rot or moisture on either side of the bulkhead in the affected area.



The interior veneer on the boat has been varnished. By pressing on the blisters, it seemed like they could be pressed back flat against the plywood backing.



I realize my first challenge will be to find out where the water is coming from, but I would appreciate any suggestions as to how these blisters might be repaired. I know that blistered veneers on furniture can sometimes be removed by heating with an iron, but that supposes that the veneer is applied with a heat sensitive glue. I suspect that the veneer that C&C used might have been glued with something like contact cement because of its intended use in a marine environment.



I will be very grateful for any comments or suggestions as to how to deal with the blistered veneer after I’ve traced down the source of the water.



Thanks,

Art Roth

C&C 36 Godspeed

Palmetto, FL






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