Joker valves will always leak a little, but you should also check the holding tank vent tube. If it is blocked, the back pressure will force the joker valve to leak worse than normal.
Robbie Epstein C&C 40 Thorfinn ----Original Message----- From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com Sent: Friday, September 14, 2012 4:08 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 80, Issue 44 Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to cnc-list@cnc-list.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com You can reach the person managing the list at cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Head Trouble (Joel Aronson) 2. Re: What C&C do you have (Greg Sutherland) 3. Re: 35-3 spin pole downhaul question (Tim Goodyear) 4. Re: 35-3 spin pole downhaul question (Joel Aronson) 5. Head Trouble (Helen Abbott) 6. Re: Head Trouble (Dennis C.) 7. Re: Head Trouble (Rich Knowles) 8. Re: Head Trouble (Russ & Melody) 9. Re: What C&C do you have (Chuck S) 10. Re: Head Trouble (Gary Russell) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 16:35:37 -0400 From: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Trouble Message-ID: <-3072003660171851704@unknownmsgid> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Makes sense, but I am truly disappointed that we have only had one toilet joke in this entire thread! Joel Sent from my iPad On Sep 13, 2012, at 4:13 PM, Gary Russell <captnga...@gmail.com> wrote: There is another possibility to consider. In the case of my boat there were times when the level of the effluent in the tank was above the bowl in the tank. In my case the tank is transverse in the boat (head on the port side) and when on starboard tack the fitting on the port side of the tank is submerged and the effluent pressure goes back to the joker valve. The joker valves are never perfect and they will leak some. What I did is run a pipe through the tank from the head fitting in the tank to the opposite side of the tank, so the fitting is on the port side but the pickup is on the starboard side. Then when on starboard tack the effluent sloshes to port and the pickup is out of the effluent. When on port tack, the pickup is submerged, but is below the level of the head so it doesn't matter. That solved the problem for me. Does that description make any sense to anybody? Gary S/V Expresso '75 C&C 35 Mk II On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 11:25 AM, Wally Bryant <w...@wbryant.com> wrote: > Yup, it's not just salt, but an extraordinary amount of excess minerals > are excreted through the kidneys (think about kidney stones,) and can build > up in the hoses and the tank as well. For the last couple of years I have > done an annual job of flushing a bunch of fresh water through the system, > and then pouring about four gallons of cheap white vinegar down the head. > I make sure some is in the bowl, and that the hoses are full of it. I let > it sit for a day or two, then flush the whole system with fresh water. > After that job I need to disassemble the pump and lubricate the O-rings > with silicone grease. > > This particular problem sounds like a bad joker valve, though. > > Wal > > > you wrote: > >> Salt from urine crystallizes on your joker valve >> and the joker valve leaks back. Ideally we are supposed to flush clean >> water thru but it never happens on the Great Lakes when you are trying >> to conserve holding tank space. >> > > > -- > s/v Stella Blue > www.wbryant.com > > > ______________________________**_________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > -- ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~ _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20120913/7f 909e88/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 22:05:51 +0000 From: Greg Sutherland <bluenosesail...@hotmail.com> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List What C&C do you have Message-ID: <snt114-w61281c6b956c9d62e3d679b1...@phx.gbl> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hey Bob, yes it was Blast that won the POW. Nice boat, good on them! Greg Siesta 87' C&C 33-2 Halifax > Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 11:44:40 -0300 > From: h...@eastlink.ca > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Stus-List What C&C do you have > > Mike: > > Yesterday at 5:30 p.m., I was on my boat way up in the mooring field and > I could hear Bruce on the J120 at the marina yelling at Woody leaving to > go race on the J24......so I believe it is entirely possible for Dwight > to hear him in the Bay. > > Did you the race the POW last Saturday? I am trying to find out who > won....the RNSYS website hasn't posted the race results or if they did I > can't find them. I heard a rumor that the J111, BLAST, won the race. > > Bob Abbott > AZURA > C&C 32 - 84 > Halifax, N.S. > > > On 2012/09/12 3:33 PM, Hoyt, Mike wrote: > > Thanks Dwight > > > > Bruce now has a Sabre 34 and races wih Ross on a J120. You can probably > > hear bruce all the way from St Margarets Bay! > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20120913/ef 5e78e2/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 18:40:11 -0400 From: Tim Goodyear <timg...@gmail.com> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 spin pole downhaul question Message-ID: <cac9qatqjy79cr3irzd3ecd9ae7v_f+xckjs7w_jcrufr53z...@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hi Joel, I saw this at APS (should be convenient for you...). http://www.apsltd.com/c-8180-abrasion-protection.aspx We haven't left the water yet, just using the engine very little and checking the transmission oil level frequently (there is a leak, as it turns out). We could, of course, just go everywhere in reverse. Tim On Wed, Sep 12, 2012 at 8:10 AM, Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>wrote: > Tim, > > SS tape? Where do you buy it? Hope you are back on the water! > > > Joel > Sent from my iPad > > On Sep 12, 2012, at 1:06 AM, Tim Goodyear <timg...@gmail.com> wrote: > > We have a single line arrangement to starboard on Mojito. We have a > turning block for the foreguy foreward of the anchor locker and then (fair) > leads back to the clutches on the starboard side of the companionway. 2:1 > doesn't seem to be necessary as long as you have someone in the pit > position, and we don't foul the cabin top at all. If it does, why not add > some stainless tape to save chafing? > > Tim > Mojito > 1984 C&C 35-3 > > On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 10:24 PM, Dennis C. <capt...@yahoo.com> wrote: > >> Not a 35-3 but perhaps a solution you'd consider. >> >> Touche's pole downhaul is doubled so it can be adjusted from either >> side. It does not run across the cabin but instead runs down the deck just >> inside the toe rails. >> >> The 2:1 downhaul runs through a single swivel block with snapshackle that >> clips to the bridle ring. The two ends are run down to 2 swivel single >> blocks attached to the foredeck padeye on a single springhook. From each >> single block, a line runs down each side of the boat through single blocks >> which are attached to stanchion bases by springhooks. From the stanchions >> just forward of the cockpit, the lines run to angled camcleats on either >> side of the cabin. The two ends are tied together in the cockpit and >> usually tossed below into the cabin. The lines are easily reached and >> adjusted by the guy trimmer as required. >> >> The whole system is removed between regattas. >> >> Dennis C. >> >> ------------------------------ >> *From:* Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> >> *To:* "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 11, 2012 8:03 PM >> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 35-3 spin pole downhaul question >> >> I understand it. I have the same setup only on starboard. Only >> solutions I can think of are to add another fairlead or to use a >> length of line or wire to raise up the snatch block. >> >> Joel >> Sent from my iPad >> >> On Sep 11, 2012, at 8:49 PM, Graham Collins <cnclistforw...@hotmail.com> >> wrote: >> >> > A question, somewhat specific for the other 35-3 owners. >> > >> > When we use our spin pole the pole downhaul is run from the pole, down >> to a snatch block on the foredeck (padeye on the deck), and back along the >> side of the cabin through a couple of fairleads (usually starboard side, >> but can do it on the other side as well). We use a single run of 3/8" for >> this. >> > >> > I'm not hugely happy with this as it drags on the forward corner of the >> cabin side (forward of the hatch). >> > >> > Any better routing methods for this? >> > >> > My apologies, I'm probably doing a crap job describing it. >> > >> > -- >> > Graham Collins >> > Secret Plans >> > C&C 35-III #11 >> > >> > >> > _______________________________________________ >> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20120913/81 128499/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 18:58:17 -0400 From: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 spin pole downhaul question Message-ID: <-5120030216608593903@unknownmsgid> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Tim, Thanks, I'll check it out. Good to hear you didn't lose the season! Joel Sent from my iPad On Sep 13, 2012, at 6:40 PM, Tim Goodyear <timg...@gmail.com> wrote: Hi Joel, I saw this at APS (should be convenient for you...). http://www.apsltd.com/c-8180-abrasion-protection.aspx We haven't left the water yet, just using the engine very little and checking the transmission oil level frequently (there is a leak, as it turns out). We could, of course, just go everywhere in reverse. Tim On Wed, Sep 12, 2012 at 8:10 AM, Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>wrote: > Tim, > > SS tape? Where do you buy it? Hope you are back on the water! > > > Joel > Sent from my iPad > > On Sep 12, 2012, at 1:06 AM, Tim Goodyear <timg...@gmail.com> wrote: > > We have a single line arrangement to starboard on Mojito. We have a > turning block for the foreguy foreward of the anchor locker and then (fair) > leads back to the clutches on the starboard side of the companionway. 2:1 > doesn't seem to be necessary as long as you have someone in the pit > position, and we don't foul the cabin top at all. If it does, why not add > some stainless tape to save chafing? > > Tim > Mojito > 1984 C&C 35-3 > > On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 10:24 PM, Dennis C. <capt...@yahoo.com> wrote: > >> Not a 35-3 but perhaps a solution you'd consider. >> >> Touche's pole downhaul is doubled so it can be adjusted from either >> side. It does not run across the cabin but instead runs down the deck just >> inside the toe rails. >> >> The 2:1 downhaul runs through a single swivel block with snapshackle that >> clips to the bridle ring. The two ends are run down to 2 swivel single >> blocks attached to the foredeck padeye on a single springhook. From each >> single block, a line runs down each side of the boat through single blocks >> which are attached to stanchion bases by springhooks. From the stanchions >> just forward of the cockpit, the lines run to angled camcleats on either >> side of the cabin. The two ends are tied together in the cockpit and >> usually tossed below into the cabin. The lines are easily reached and >> adjusted by the guy trimmer as required. >> >> The whole system is removed between regattas. >> >> Dennis C. >> >> ------------------------------ >> *From:* Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> >> *To:* "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 11, 2012 8:03 PM >> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 35-3 spin pole downhaul question >> >> I understand it. I have the same setup only on starboard. Only >> solutions I can think of are to add another fairlead or to use a >> length of line or wire to raise up the snatch block. >> >> Joel >> Sent from my iPad >> >> On Sep 11, 2012, at 8:49 PM, Graham Collins <cnclistforw...@hotmail.com> >> wrote: >> >> > A question, somewhat specific for the other 35-3 owners. >> > >> > When we use our spin pole the pole downhaul is run from the pole, down >> to a snatch block on the foredeck (padeye on the deck), and back along the >> side of the cabin through a couple of fairleads (usually starboard side, >> but can do it on the other side as well). We use a single run of 3/8" for >> this. >> > >> > I'm not hugely happy with this as it drags on the forward corner of the >> cabin side (forward of the hatch). >> > >> > Any better routing methods for this? >> > >> > My apologies, I'm probably doing a crap job describing it. >> > >> > -- >> > Graham Collins >> > Secret Plans >> > C&C 35-III #11 >> > >> > >> > _______________________________________________ >> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20120913/98 12f0ce/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 20:29:06 -0300 From: Helen Abbott <h...@eastlink.ca> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Head Trouble Message-ID: <50526c42.9020...@eastlink.ca> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed" Gary: It's been a long day, and maybe, the effects an adult beverage has provided me with an induced state of brilliance, so after reading your description of your on board 'plumbing system', to avoid unweIcomed effluent backup in the head, I completely understand.....quite brilliant really! Bob Abbott AZURA C&C 32 - 84 Halifax.N.S. On 2012/09/13 5:13 PM, Gary Russell wrote: > There is another possibility to consider. In the case of my boat > there were times when the level of the effluent in the tank was above > the bowl in the tank. In my case the tank is transverse in the boat > (head on the port side) and when on starboard tack the fitting on the > port side of the tank is submerged and the effluent pressure goes back > to the joker valve. The joker valves are never perfect and they will > leak some. What I did is run a pipe through the tank from the head > fitting in the tank to the opposite side of the tank, so the fitting > is on the port side but the pickup is on the starboard side. Then > when on starboard tack the effluent sloshes to port and the pickup is > out of the effluent. When on port tack, the pickup is submerged, but > is below the level of the head so it doesn't matter. That solved the > problem for me. Does that description make any sense to anybody? > > Gary > S/V Expresso > '75 C&C 35 Mk II > > On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 11:25 AM, Wally Bryant <w...@wbryant.com > <mailto:w...@wbryant.com>> wrote: > > Yup, it's not just salt, but an extraordinary amount of excess > minerals are excreted through the kidneys (think about kidney > stones,) and can build up in the hoses and the tank as well. For > the last couple of years I have done an annual job of flushing a > bunch of fresh water through the system, and then pouring about > four gallons of cheap white vinegar down the head. I make sure > some is in the bowl, and that the hoses are full of it. I let it > sit for a day or two, then flush the whole system with fresh > water. After that job I need to disassemble the pump and > lubricate the O-rings with silicone grease. > > This particular problem sounds like a bad joker valve, though. > > Wal > > > you wrote: > > Salt from urine crystallizes on your joker valve > and the joker valve leaks back. Ideally we are supposed to > flush clean > water thru but it never happens on the Great Lakes when you > are trying > to conserve holding tank space. > > > > -- > s/v Stella Blue > www.wbryant.com <http://www.wbryant.com> > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> > > > > > -- > ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~ > > > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20120913/a6 8b6498/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 17:26:25 -0700 (PDT) From: "Dennis C." <capt...@yahoo.com> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Trouble Message-ID: <1347582385.78353.yahoomail...@web114309.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Smart move.? I never rebuild a head.? I tell customers I will install a new pump assembly.? A few $$ more for the part but less of my billable hours. If the cylinder of your pump is scores, you're just rebuilding a problem.? Buy a replacement pump assembly!!! Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville,LA >________________________________ > From: "cenel...@aol.com" <cenel...@aol.com> >To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2012 10:07 AM >Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Trouble > > >The proposed solutions will probably do the trick. However, having suffered the same problem with my jabasco unit, now + 15 years old with several rebuilds, >I bought the jabasco kit with a new 'locking' pump assembly. >? >With it is in the?locked position, where it stays unless used, no water can return from anywhere back to the bowl. >? >Problem solved for about the cost of he usual rebuild kit cost and it hasn't returned in the 3-4 years since I replaced it. >? >The bolts match exactly so you unbolt/unhose >the old pump assy, pitch it, rebolt/rehose the new one in about 15 minutes. >? >Charlie Nelson >Water Phantom >C&C 36 XL/kcb >Greenville, NC >cenel...@aol.com > >-----Original Message----- >From: Hoyt, Mike <mike.h...@impgroup.com> >To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >Sent: Thu, Sep 13, 2012 8:47 am >Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Trouble > > >Steve We have had a similar problem on the 115 - also a Jabsco manual flush head. In our case the water was backflowing from the discharge hose into the bowl. Our solution was to over pump for approx 20 seconds on wet flush before pumping on dry flush. That way the backflow would at least be cleaner water! Mike -----Original Message----- From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of OldSteveH Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2012 1:00 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Head Trouble I've had this disgusting problem a few times and attributed it to someone over-flushing the head, but I think there's a problem with the head: After a few days post-pump-out the head has back filled with blackwater while sailing and once while at anchor. First few times this happened I chalked it up to a guest over-flushing, got it pumped and went on my way. The Jabsco head is 3 years old. The system was completely redone by previous owner. It was a very well done job, no mickey mouse stuff on the surface, all new hoses and recommissioned blackwater tank. I checked the Jabsco manual and all appears to be piped correctly. The last trip was the last straw. I had to go below every 10 minutes and scoop some very disgusting water out of the bowl and pour down sink drain otherwise it would have overflowed. After a couple of hours of this the shine wears off, believe me. So - my plan is to take out the pump/valve assembly and look for a failed seal. Should the head discharge hose-to-tank have a check valve in it? I think not because it would become fouled with solids. I'm aware of principles of siphoning but short of drawing a diagram I don't think siphoning is the problem. I can't think of anything besides a failed seal. Help! Steve Hood S/V Diamond Girl C&C 34 Lions Head ON _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com >_______________________________________________ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20120913/d7 d01be9/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 21:00:52 -0400 From: Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Trouble Message-ID: <34fb1650-b85d-4655-9370-e18e92ac2...@sailpower.ca> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Crappy topic:( Rich K On 2012-09-13, at 16:35, Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> wrote: > Makes sense, but I am truly disappointed that we have only had one toilet joke in this entire thread! > > Joel > Sent from my iPad > > On Sep 13, 2012, at 4:13 PM, Gary Russell <captnga...@gmail.com> wrote: > >> There is another possibility to consider. In the case of my boat there were times when the level of the effluent in the tank was above the bowl in the tank. In my case the tank is transverse in the boat (head on the port side) and when on starboard tack the fitting on the port side of the tank is submerged and the effluent pressure goes back to the joker valve. The joker valves are never perfect and they will leak some. What I did is run a pipe through the tank from the head fitting in the tank to the opposite side of the tank, so the fitting is on the port side but the pickup is on the starboard side. Then when on starboard tack the effluent sloshes to port and the pickup is out of the effluent. When on port tack, the pickup is submerged, but is below the level of the head so it doesn't matter. That solved the problem for me. Does that description make any sense to anybody? >> >> Gary >> S/V Expresso >> '75 C&C 35 Mk II >> >> On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 11:25 AM, Wally Bryant <w...@wbryant.com> wrote: >> Yup, it's not just salt, but an extraordinary amount of excess minerals are excreted through the kidneys (think about kidney stones,) and can build up in the hoses and the tank as well. For the last couple of years I have done an annual job of flushing a bunch of fresh water through the system, and then pouring about four gallons of cheap white vinegar down the head. I make sure some is in the bowl, and that the hoses are full of it. I let it sit for a day or two, then flush the whole system with fresh water. After that job I need to disassemble the pump and lubricate the O-rings with silicone grease. >> >> This particular problem sounds like a bad joker valve, though. >> >> Wal >> >> >> you wrote: >> Salt from urine crystallizes on your joker valve >> and the joker valve leaks back. Ideally we are supposed to flush clean >> water thru but it never happens on the Great Lakes when you are trying >> to conserve holding tank space. >> >> >> -- >> s/v Stella Blue >> www.wbryant.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> >> >> >> -- >> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~ >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20120913/2b 430011/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 19:03:50 -0700 From: Russ & Melody <russ...@telus.net> To: "Dennis C." <capt...@yahoo.com>,cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Trouble Message-ID: <20120914020359.BBQQ5216.priv-edmwes24.telusplanet.net@edmwcm04> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; Format="flowed" Hi Dennis, A little suggestive story: Many years ago, during a winter cruise of some San Juan Islands, at a house social on Lopez Island I met a ship's husband of the area . Most of his work was in Friday Harbour for absentee owners. (He lived aboard a large old tug with a gorgeous Atlas engine, but that's another story.) Anyhow, long story made short, at the time he charged $25 per hour except for time on toilet or sewage systems. That was charged at double time. He may have heard grumbling from the owners about the rate but he still ended up doing the work. Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 east Vancouver Island At 05:26 PM 13/09/2012, you wrote: >Smart move. I never rebuild a head. I tell customers I will >install a new pump assembly. A few $$ more for the part but less of >my billable hours. > >If the cylinder of your pump is scores, you're just rebuilding a >problem. Buy a replacement pump assembly!!! > >Dennis C. >Touche' 35-1 #83 >Mandeville,LA > > >From: "cenel...@aol.com" <cenel...@aol.com> >To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2012 10:07 AM >Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Trouble > >The proposed solutions will probably do the trick. However, having >suffered the same problem with my jabasco unit, now + 15 years old >with several rebuilds, >I bought the jabasco kit with a new 'locking' pump assembly. > >With it is in the locked position, where it stays unless used, no >water can return from anywhere back to the bowl. > >Problem solved for about the cost of he usual rebuild kit cost and >it hasn't returned in the 3-4 years since I replaced it. > >The bolts match exactly so you unbolt/unhose >the old pump assy, pitch it, rebolt/rehose the new one in about 15 minutes. > >Charlie Nelson >Water Phantom >C&C 36 XL/kcb >Greenville, NC >cenel...@aol.com >-----Original Message----- >From: Hoyt, Mike <mike.h...@impgroup.com> >To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >Sent: Thu, Sep 13, 2012 8:47 am >Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Trouble > > >Steve > >We have had a similar problem on the 115 - also a Jabsco manual flush >head. In our case the water was backflowing from the discharge hose >into the bowl. Our solution was to over pump for approx 20 seconds on >wet flush before pumping on dry flush. That way the backflow would at >least be cleaner water! > >Mike > >-----Original Message----- >From: <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com >[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of OldSteveH >Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2012 1:00 AM >To: <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com >Subject: Stus-List Head Trouble > >I've had this disgusting problem a few times and attributed it to >someone >over-flushing the head, but I think there's a problem with the head: > >After a few days post-pump-out the head has back filled with blackwater >while sailing and once while at anchor. >First few times this happened I chalked it up to a guest over-flushing, >got >it pumped and went on my way. > >The Jabsco head is 3 years old. The system was completely redone by >previous >owner. >It was a very well done job, no mickey mouse stuff on the surface, all >new >hoses and recommissioned blackwater tank. >I checked the Jabsco manual and all appears to be piped correctly. > >The last trip was the last straw. I had to go below every 10 minutes and >scoop some very disgusting water out of the bowl and pour down sink >drain >otherwise it would have overflowed. After a couple of hours of this the >shine wears off, believe me. > >So - my plan is to take out the pump/valve assembly and look for a >failed >seal. >Should the head discharge hose-to-tank have a check valve in it? I think >not >because it would become fouled with solids. >I'm aware of principles of siphoning but short of drawing a diagram I >don't >think siphoning is the problem. >I can't think of anything besides a failed seal. > >Help! > > >Steve Hood >S/V Diamond Girl >C&C 34 >Lions Head ON > > > > > >_______________________________________________ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >http://www.cncphotoalbum.com ><mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>CnC-List@cnc-list.com > >_______________________________________________ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album ><http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com ><mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > >_______________________________________________ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album ><http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com ><mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > >_______________________________________________ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >CnC-List@cnc-list.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20120913/98 0f8471/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 04:23:47 +0000 (UTC) From: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List What C&C do you have Message-ID: <842550414.1070921.1347596627133.javamail.r...@sz0179a.westchester.pa.mail.c omcast.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" I second Dwight's request. Please include boat name, model, year, location It really adds a lot to know what model boat and where it is sailing when trying to understand a problem. Some techniques don't translate to larger or smaller model boats and some winter storing boats in Nova Scotia is much different than storing a boat in Louisiana. Chuck Resolute 1990 C&C 34R Atlantic City, NJ ----- Original Message ----- From: "dwight veinot" <dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2012 12:33:55 PM Subject: Stus-List What C&C do you have Alex and others I don't know if it violates any rules or what others may feel but I really like it when folks sign their emails to this list and include boat name, year and model and also location or yacht club. Lots are already doing it and hopefully more others will too...helps with getting to know people who you may never meet and its nice to know where folks do their sailing...like I didn't know until I read Chuck's post today that folks swim in the ocean well into October in Atlantic City...I figure it's pretty busy on the water around where he is sailing thanks Dwight Veinot C&C 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS -----Original Message----- From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex Giannelia Sent: September 12, 2012 1:20 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Reverse Flow on Transom Bilge Outflow (Gary Russell) Thanks Gary and good to hear from you again! I will definitely do that, the exhaust already does that and someone told me I should put one of those vacuum breaks on it, so that is why I thought about it. My 6 year "deck restoration" project is slowly coming to an end.... ALEX GIANNELIA Phone (416) 203-9858 Fax (416) 203-9843 Cell (416) 529-0070 email: a...@airsensing.com WEB: www.airsensing.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20120914/18 21ec85/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 05:07:05 -0400 From: Gary Russell <captnga...@gmail.com> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Trouble Message-ID: <CABgkXPKBVZye7=cWVfcY5F0iZb9swBef=nvqnq-tfvd18r2...@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hi Bob, When I first bought Expresso in 1998 she had a small bladder tank for the head. Ever since, it has been my mission to build a system that would work properly; that is, no leaks, no smell and can't syphon when the uninitiated left a valve in the wrong state. After many attempts and changes, over the years, if feel I have accomplished my goal. I have received many ideas from others including Peggy Hall (the head mistress) and probably a few adult beverages along the way. I'm an engineer, not a writer, so the fact that you could understand my babbling, speaks more to your brilliance than mine. If you ever want additional details on my system, just let me know. Gary S/V Expresso '75 C&C 35 Mk II On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 7:29 PM, Helen Abbott <h...@eastlink.ca> wrote: > Gary: > It's been a long day, and maybe, the effects an adult beverage has > provided me with an induced state of brilliance, so after reading your > description of your on board 'plumbing system', to avoid unweIcomed > effluent backup in the head, I completely understand.....quite brilliant > really! > > Bob Abbott > AZURA > C&C 32 - 84 > Halifax.N.S. > > > On 2012/09/13 5:13 PM, Gary Russell wrote: > > There is another possibility to consider. In the case of my boat there > were times when the level of the effluent in the tank was above the bowl in > the tank. In my case the tank is transverse in the boat (head on the port > side) and when on starboard tack the fitting on the port side of the tank > is submerged and the effluent pressure goes back to the joker valve. The > joker valves are never perfect and they will leak some. What I did is run > a pipe through the tank from the head fitting in the tank to the opposite > side of the tank, so the fitting is on the port side but the pickup is on > the starboard side. Then when on starboard tack the effluent sloshes to > port and the pickup is out of the effluent. When on port tack, the pickup > is submerged, but is below the level of the head so it doesn't matter. > That solved the problem for me. Does that description make any sense to > anybody? > > Gary > S/V Expresso > '75 C&C 35 Mk II > > On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 11:25 AM, Wally Bryant <w...@wbryant.com> wrote: > >> Yup, it's not just salt, but an extraordinary amount of excess minerals >> are excreted through the kidneys (think about kidney stones,) and can build >> up in the hoses and the tank as well. For the last couple of years I have >> done an annual job of flushing a bunch of fresh water through the system, >> and then pouring about four gallons of cheap white vinegar down the head. >> I make sure some is in the bowl, and that the hoses are full of it. I let >> it sit for a day or two, then flush the whole system with fresh water. >> After that job I need to disassemble the pump and lubricate the O-rings >> with silicone grease. >> >> This particular problem sounds like a bad joker valve, though. >> >> Wal >> >> >> you wrote: >> >>> Salt from urine crystallizes on your joker valve >>> and the joker valve leaks back. Ideally we are supposed to flush clean >>> water thru but it never happens on the Great Lakes when you are trying >>> to conserve holding tank space. >>> >> >> >> -- >> s/v Stella Blue >> www.wbryant.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> > > > > -- > ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~ > > > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comcnc-l...@cnc-list.com > > > -- ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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