Joker valves will always leak a little, but you should also check the
holding tank vent tube.  If it is blocked, the back pressure will force the
joker valve to leak worse than normal.

Robbie Epstein
C&C 40 Thorfinn

 
----Original Message-----
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2012 4:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 80, Issue 44

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
        cnc-list@cnc-list.com

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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Head Trouble (Joel Aronson)
   2. Re:  What C&C do you have (Greg Sutherland)
   3. Re:  35-3 spin pole downhaul question (Tim Goodyear)
   4. Re:  35-3 spin pole downhaul question (Joel Aronson)
   5.  Head Trouble (Helen Abbott)
   6. Re:  Head Trouble (Dennis C.)
   7. Re:  Head Trouble (Rich Knowles)
   8. Re:  Head Trouble (Russ & Melody)
   9. Re:  What C&C do you have (Chuck S)
  10. Re:  Head Trouble (Gary Russell)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 16:35:37 -0400
From: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Trouble
Message-ID: <-3072003660171851704@unknownmsgid>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Makes sense, but I am truly disappointed that we have only had one toilet
joke in this entire thread!

Joel
Sent from my iPad

On Sep 13, 2012, at 4:13 PM, Gary Russell <captnga...@gmail.com> wrote:

There is another possibility to consider.  In the case of my boat there
were times when the level of the effluent in the tank was above the bowl in
the tank.  In my case the tank is transverse in the boat (head on the port
side) and when on starboard tack the fitting on the port side of the tank
is submerged and the effluent pressure goes back to the joker valve.  The
joker valves are never perfect and they will leak some.  What I did is run
a pipe through the tank from the head fitting in the tank to the opposite
side of the tank, so the fitting is on the port side but the pickup is on
the starboard side.  Then when on starboard tack the effluent sloshes to
port and the pickup is out of the effluent.  When on port tack, the pickup
is submerged, but is below the level of the head so it doesn't matter.
 That solved the problem for me.  Does that description make any sense to
anybody?

Gary
 S/V Expresso
'75 C&C 35 Mk II

On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 11:25 AM, Wally Bryant <w...@wbryant.com> wrote:

> Yup, it's not just salt, but an extraordinary amount of excess minerals
> are excreted through the kidneys (think about kidney stones,) and can
build
> up in the hoses and the tank as well.  For the last couple of years I have
> done an annual job of flushing a bunch of fresh water through the system,
> and then pouring about four gallons of cheap white vinegar down the head.
>  I make sure some is in the bowl, and that the hoses are full of it.  I
let
> it sit for a day or two, then flush the whole system with fresh water.
>  After that job I need to disassemble the pump and lubricate the O-rings
> with silicone grease.
>
> This particular problem sounds like a bad joker valve, though.
>
> Wal
>
>
> you wrote:
>
>> Salt from urine crystallizes on your joker valve
>> and the joker valve leaks back. Ideally we are supposed to flush clean
>> water thru but it never happens on the Great Lakes when you are trying
>> to conserve holding tank space.
>>
>
>
> --
> s/v Stella Blue
> www.wbryant.com
>
>
> ______________________________**_________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>



-- 
~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~


 _______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 22:05:51 +0000
From: Greg Sutherland <bluenosesail...@hotmail.com>
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List What C&C do you have
Message-ID: <snt114-w61281c6b956c9d62e3d679b1...@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"


Hey Bob, yes it was Blast that won the POW. 
Nice boat, good on them!
 
Greg
Siesta
87' C&C 33-2 
Halifax
 

> Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 11:44:40 -0300
> From: h...@eastlink.ca
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List What C&C do you have
> 
> Mike:
> 
> Yesterday at 5:30 p.m., I was on my boat way up in the mooring field and 
> I could hear Bruce on the J120 at the marina yelling at Woody leaving to 
> go race on the J24......so I believe it is entirely possible for Dwight 
> to hear him in the Bay.
> 
> Did you the race the POW last Saturday? I am trying to find out who 
> won....the RNSYS website hasn't posted the race results or if they did I 
> can't find them. I heard a rumor that the J111, BLAST, won the race.
> 
> Bob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
> On 2012/09/12 3:33 PM, Hoyt, Mike wrote:
> > Thanks Dwight
> >
> > Bruce now has a Sabre 34 and races wih Ross on a J120. You can probably
> > hear bruce all the way from St Margarets Bay!
> >
> >
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
                                          
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 18:40:11 -0400
From: Tim Goodyear <timg...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 spin pole downhaul question
Message-ID:
        <cac9qatqjy79cr3irzd3ecd9ae7v_f+xckjs7w_jcrufr53z...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi Joel, I saw this at APS (should be convenient for you...).
http://www.apsltd.com/c-8180-abrasion-protection.aspx

We haven't left the water yet, just using the engine very little and
checking the transmission oil level frequently (there is a leak, as it
turns out).  We could, of course, just go everywhere in reverse.

Tim

On Wed, Sep 12, 2012 at 8:10 AM, Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>wrote:

>  Tim,
>
> SS tape?  Where do you buy it?  Hope you are back on the water!
>
>
> Joel
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Sep 12, 2012, at 1:06 AM, Tim Goodyear <timg...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>   We have a single line arrangement to starboard on Mojito.  We have a
> turning block for the foreguy foreward of the anchor locker and then
(fair)
> leads back to the clutches on the starboard side of the companionway.  2:1
> doesn't seem to be necessary as long as you have someone in the pit
> position, and we don't foul the cabin top at all.  If it does, why not add
> some stainless tape to save chafing?
>
> Tim
> Mojito
> 1984 C&C 35-3
>
> On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 10:24 PM, Dennis C. <capt...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>  Not a 35-3 but perhaps a solution you'd consider.
>>
>> Touche's pole downhaul is doubled so it can be adjusted from either
>> side.  It does not run across the cabin but instead runs down the deck
just
>> inside the toe rails.
>>
>> The 2:1 downhaul runs through a single swivel block with snapshackle that
>> clips to the bridle ring.  The two ends are run down to 2 swivel single
>> blocks attached to the foredeck padeye on a single springhook.  From each
>> single block, a line runs down each side of the boat through single
blocks
>> which are  attached to stanchion bases by springhooks.  From the
stanchions
>> just forward of the cockpit, the lines run to angled camcleats on either
>> side of the cabin.  The two ends are tied together in the cockpit and
>> usually tossed below into the cabin.  The lines are easily reached and
>> adjusted by the guy trimmer as required.
>>
>> The whole system is removed between regattas.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>>   ------------------------------
>> *From:* Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
>> *To:* "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 11, 2012 8:03 PM
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 35-3 spin pole downhaul question
>>
>> I understand it.  I have the same setup only on starboard.  Only
>> solutions I can think of are to add another fairlead or to use a
>> length of line or wire to raise up the snatch block.
>>
>> Joel
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Sep 11, 2012, at 8:49 PM, Graham Collins <cnclistforw...@hotmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> > A question, somewhat specific for the other 35-3 owners.
>> >
>> > When we use our spin pole the pole downhaul is run from the pole, down
>> to a snatch block on the foredeck (padeye on the deck), and back along
the
>> side of the cabin through a couple of fairleads (usually starboard side,
>> but can do it on the other side as well).  We use a single run of 3/8"
for
>> this.
>> >
>> > I'm not hugely happy with this as it drags on the forward corner of the
>> cabin side (forward of the hatch).
>> >
>> > Any better routing methods for this?
>> >
>> > My apologies, I'm probably doing a crap job describing it.
>> >
>> > --
>> > Graham Collins
>> > Secret Plans
>> > C&C 35-III #11
>> >
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>  _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 18:58:17 -0400
From: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 spin pole downhaul question
Message-ID: <-5120030216608593903@unknownmsgid>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Tim,

Thanks, I'll check it out.  Good to hear you didn't lose the season!

Joel
Sent from my iPad

On Sep 13, 2012, at 6:40 PM, Tim Goodyear <timg...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi Joel, I saw this at APS (should be convenient for you...).
http://www.apsltd.com/c-8180-abrasion-protection.aspx

We haven't left the water yet, just using the engine very little and
checking the transmission oil level frequently (there is a leak, as it
turns out).  We could, of course, just go everywhere in reverse.

Tim

On Wed, Sep 12, 2012 at 8:10 AM, Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>wrote:

>  Tim,
>
> SS tape?  Where do you buy it?  Hope you are back on the water!
>
>
> Joel
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Sep 12, 2012, at 1:06 AM, Tim Goodyear <timg...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>   We have a single line arrangement to starboard on Mojito.  We have a
> turning block for the foreguy foreward of the anchor locker and then
(fair)
> leads back to the clutches on the starboard side of the companionway.  2:1
> doesn't seem to be necessary as long as you have someone in the pit
> position, and we don't foul the cabin top at all.  If it does, why not add
> some stainless tape to save chafing?
>
> Tim
> Mojito
> 1984 C&C 35-3
>
> On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 10:24 PM, Dennis C. <capt...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>  Not a 35-3 but perhaps a solution you'd consider.
>>
>> Touche's pole downhaul is doubled so it can be adjusted from either
>> side.  It does not run across the cabin but instead runs down the deck
just
>> inside the toe rails.
>>
>> The 2:1 downhaul runs through a single swivel block with snapshackle that
>> clips to the bridle ring.  The two ends are run down to 2 swivel single
>> blocks attached to the foredeck padeye on a single springhook.  From each
>> single block, a line runs down each side of the boat through single
blocks
>> which are  attached to stanchion bases by springhooks.  From the
stanchions
>> just forward of the cockpit, the lines run to angled camcleats on either
>> side of the cabin.  The two ends are tied together in the cockpit and
>> usually tossed below into the cabin.  The lines are easily reached and
>> adjusted by the guy trimmer as required.
>>
>> The whole system is removed between regattas.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>>   ------------------------------
>> *From:* Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
>> *To:* "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 11, 2012 8:03 PM
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 35-3 spin pole downhaul question
>>
>> I understand it.  I have the same setup only on starboard.  Only
>> solutions I can think of are to add another fairlead or to use a
>> length of line or wire to raise up the snatch block.
>>
>> Joel
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Sep 11, 2012, at 8:49 PM, Graham Collins <cnclistforw...@hotmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> > A question, somewhat specific for the other 35-3 owners.
>> >
>> > When we use our spin pole the pole downhaul is run from the pole, down
>> to a snatch block on the foredeck (padeye on the deck), and back along
the
>> side of the cabin through a couple of fairleads (usually starboard side,
>> but can do it on the other side as well).  We use a single run of 3/8"
for
>> this.
>> >
>> > I'm not hugely happy with this as it drags on the forward corner of the
>> cabin side (forward of the hatch).
>> >
>> > Any better routing methods for this?
>> >
>> > My apologies, I'm probably doing a crap job describing it.
>> >
>> > --
>> > Graham Collins
>> > Secret Plans
>> > C&C 35-III #11
>> >
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>  _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 20:29:06 -0300
From: Helen Abbott <h...@eastlink.ca>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Head Trouble
Message-ID: <50526c42.9020...@eastlink.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"

Gary:
It's been a long day, and maybe, the effects an adult beverage has 
provided me with an induced state of brilliance, so after reading your 
description of your on board 'plumbing system', to avoid unweIcomed 
effluent backup in the head, I  completely understand.....quite 
brilliant really!

Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax.N.S.


On 2012/09/13 5:13 PM, Gary Russell wrote:
> There is another possibility to consider.  In the case of my boat 
> there were times when the level of the effluent in the tank was above 
> the bowl in the tank.  In my case the tank is transverse in the boat 
> (head on the port side) and when on starboard tack the fitting on the 
> port side of the tank is submerged and the effluent pressure goes back 
> to the joker valve.  The joker valves are never perfect and they will 
> leak some.  What I did is run a pipe through the tank from the head 
> fitting in the tank to the opposite side of the tank, so the fitting 
> is on the port side but the pickup is on the starboard side.  Then 
> when on starboard tack the effluent sloshes to port and the pickup is 
> out of the effluent.  When on port tack, the pickup is submerged, but 
> is below the level of the head so it doesn't matter.  That solved the 
> problem for me.  Does that description make any sense to anybody?
>
> Gary
>  S/V Expresso
> '75 C&C 35 Mk II
>
> On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 11:25 AM, Wally Bryant <w...@wbryant.com 
> <mailto:w...@wbryant.com>> wrote:
>
>     Yup, it's not just salt, but an extraordinary amount of excess
>     minerals are excreted through the kidneys (think about kidney
>     stones,) and can build up in the hoses and the tank as well.  For
>     the last couple of years I have done an annual job of flushing a
>     bunch of fresh water through the system, and then pouring about
>     four gallons of cheap white vinegar down the head.  I make sure
>     some is in the bowl, and that the hoses are full of it.  I let it
>     sit for a day or two, then flush the whole system with fresh
>     water.  After that job I need to disassemble the pump and
>     lubricate the O-rings with silicone grease.
>
>     This particular problem sounds like a bad joker valve, though.
>
>     Wal
>
>
>     you wrote:
>
>         Salt from urine crystallizes on your joker valve
>         and the joker valve leaks back. Ideally we are supposed to
>         flush clean
>         water thru but it never happens on the Great Lakes when you
>         are trying
>         to conserve holding tank space.
>
>
>
>     -- 
>     s/v Stella Blue
>     www.wbryant.com <http://www.wbryant.com>
>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>     http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>     CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
>
>
>
>
> -- 
> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 17:26:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Dennis C." <capt...@yahoo.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Trouble
Message-ID:
        <1347582385.78353.yahoomail...@web114309.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Smart move.? I never rebuild a head.? I tell customers I will install a new
pump assembly.? A few $$ more for the part but less of my billable hours.

If the cylinder of your pump is scores, you're just rebuilding a problem.?
Buy a replacement pump assembly!!!

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville,LA




>________________________________
> From: "cenel...@aol.com" <cenel...@aol.com>
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2012 10:07 AM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Trouble
> 
>
>The proposed solutions will probably do the trick. However, having suffered
the same problem with my jabasco unit, now + 15 years old with several
rebuilds, 
>I bought the jabasco kit with a new 'locking' pump assembly.
>?
>With it is in the?locked position, where it stays unless used, no water can
return from anywhere back to the bowl.
>?
>Problem solved for about the cost of he usual rebuild kit cost and it
hasn't returned in the 3-4 years since I replaced it.
>?
>The bolts match exactly so you unbolt/unhose
>the old pump assy, pitch it, rebolt/rehose the new one in about 15 minutes.
>?
>Charlie Nelson
>Water Phantom
>C&C 36 XL/kcb
>Greenville, NC
>cenel...@aol.com
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Hoyt, Mike <mike.h...@impgroup.com>
>To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>Sent: Thu, Sep 13, 2012 8:47 am
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Trouble
>
>
>Steve We have had a similar problem on the 115 - also a Jabsco manual flush
head.  In our case the water was backflowing from the discharge hose
into the bowl.  Our solution was to over pump for approx 20 seconds on
wet flush before pumping on dry flush.  That way the backflow would at
least be cleaner water! Mike  -----Original Message-----
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of OldSteveH
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2012 1:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Head Trouble I've had this
disgusting problem a few times and attributed it to
someone
over-flushing the head, but I think there's a problem with the head: After a
few days post-pump-out the head has back filled with blackwater
while sailing and once while at anchor.
First few times this happened I chalked it up to a guest over-flushing,
got
it pumped and went on my way. The Jabsco head is 3 years old. The system was
completely redone by
previous
owner.
It was a very well done job, no mickey mouse stuff on the surface, all
new
hoses and recommissioned blackwater tank.
I checked the Jabsco manual and all appears to be piped correctly. The last
trip was the last straw. I had to go below every 10 minutes and
scoop some very disgusting water out of the bowl and pour down sink
drain
otherwise it would have overflowed. After a couple of hours of this the
shine wears off, believe me. So - my plan is to take out the pump/valve
assembly and look for a
failed
seal.
Should the head discharge hose-to-tank have a check valve in it? I think
not
because it would become fouled with solids.
I'm aware of principles of siphoning but short of drawing a diagram I
don't
think siphoning is the problem.
I can't think of anything besides a failed seal. Help! Steve Hood
S/V Diamond Girl
C&C 34
Lions Head ON _______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>_______________________________________________
>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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>
>
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 21:00:52 -0400
From: Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Trouble
Message-ID: <34fb1650-b85d-4655-9370-e18e92ac2...@sailpower.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Crappy topic:(

Rich K


On 2012-09-13, at 16:35, Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Makes sense, but I am truly disappointed that we have only had one toilet
joke in this entire thread!
> 
> Joel
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Sep 13, 2012, at 4:13 PM, Gary Russell <captnga...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>> There is another possibility to consider.  In the case of my boat there
were times when the level of the effluent in the tank was above the bowl in
the tank.  In my case the tank is transverse in the boat (head on the port
side) and when on starboard tack the fitting on the port side of the tank is
submerged and the effluent pressure goes back to the joker valve.  The joker
valves are never perfect and they will leak some.  What I did is run a pipe
through the tank from the head fitting in the tank to the opposite side of
the tank, so the fitting is on the port side but the pickup is on the
starboard side.  Then when on starboard tack the effluent sloshes to port
and the pickup is out of the effluent.  When on port tack, the pickup is
submerged, but is below the level of the head so it doesn't matter.  That
solved the problem for me.  Does that description make any sense to anybody?
>> 
>> Gary
>>  S/V Expresso
>> '75 C&C 35 Mk II
>> 
>> On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 11:25 AM, Wally Bryant <w...@wbryant.com> wrote:
>> Yup, it's not just salt, but an extraordinary amount of excess minerals
are excreted through the kidneys (think about kidney stones,) and can build
up in the hoses and the tank as well.  For the last couple of years I have
done an annual job of flushing a bunch of fresh water through the system,
and then pouring about four gallons of cheap white vinegar down the head.  I
make sure some is in the bowl, and that the hoses are full of it.  I let it
sit for a day or two, then flush the whole system with fresh water.  After
that job I need to disassemble the pump and lubricate the O-rings with
silicone grease.
>> 
>> This particular problem sounds like a bad joker valve, though.
>> 
>> Wal
>> 
>> 
>> you wrote:
>> Salt from urine crystallizes on your joker valve
>> and the joker valve leaks back. Ideally we are supposed to flush clean
>> water thru but it never happens on the Great Lakes when you are trying
>> to conserve holding tank space.
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> s/v Stella Blue
>> www.wbryant.com
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 19:03:50 -0700
From: Russ & Melody <russ...@telus.net>
To: "Dennis C." <capt...@yahoo.com>,cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Trouble
Message-ID:
        <20120914020359.BBQQ5216.priv-edmwes24.telusplanet.net@edmwcm04>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; Format="flowed"

Hi Dennis,
A little suggestive story:
         Many years ago, during a winter cruise of some San Juan 
Islands, at a house social on Lopez Island I met a ship's husband of 
the area . Most of his work was in Friday Harbour for absentee 
owners. (He lived aboard a large old tug with a gorgeous Atlas 
engine, but that's another story.)
Anyhow, long story made short, at the time he charged $25 per hour 
except for time on toilet or sewage systems. That was charged at double
time.
He may have heard grumbling from the owners about the rate but he 
still ended up doing the work.

         Cheers, Russ
         Sweet 35 mk-1
east Vancouver Island

At 05:26 PM 13/09/2012, you wrote:
>Smart move.  I never rebuild a head.  I tell customers I will 
>install a new pump assembly.  A few $$ more for the part but less of 
>my billable hours.
>
>If the cylinder of your pump is scores, you're just rebuilding a 
>problem.  Buy a replacement pump assembly!!!
>
>Dennis C.
>Touche' 35-1 #83
>Mandeville,LA
>
>
>From: "cenel...@aol.com" <cenel...@aol.com>
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2012 10:07 AM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Trouble
>
>The proposed solutions will probably do the trick. However, having 
>suffered the same problem with my jabasco unit, now + 15 years old 
>with several rebuilds,
>I bought the jabasco kit with a new 'locking' pump assembly.
>
>With it is in the locked position, where it stays unless used, no 
>water can return from anywhere back to the bowl.
>
>Problem solved for about the cost of he usual rebuild kit cost and 
>it hasn't returned in the 3-4 years since I replaced it.
>
>The bolts match exactly so you unbolt/unhose
>the old pump assy, pitch it, rebolt/rehose the new one in about 15 minutes.
>
>Charlie Nelson
>Water Phantom
>C&C 36 XL/kcb
>Greenville, NC
>cenel...@aol.com
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Hoyt, Mike <mike.h...@impgroup.com>
>To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>Sent: Thu, Sep 13, 2012 8:47 am
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Trouble
>
>
>Steve
>
>We have had a similar problem on the 115 - also a Jabsco manual flush
>head.  In our case the water was backflowing from the discharge hose
>into the bowl.  Our solution was to over pump for approx 20 seconds on
>wet flush before pumping on dry flush.  That way the backflow would at
>least be cleaner water!
>
>Mike
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
>[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of OldSteveH
>Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2012 1:00 AM
>To: <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Subject: Stus-List Head Trouble
>
>I've had this disgusting problem a few times and attributed it to
>someone
>over-flushing the head, but I think there's a problem with the head:
>
>After a few days post-pump-out the head has back filled with blackwater
>while sailing and once while at anchor.
>First few times this happened I chalked it up to a guest over-flushing,
>got
>it pumped and went on my way.
>
>The Jabsco head is 3 years old. The system was completely redone by
>previous
>owner.
>It was a very well done job, no mickey mouse stuff on the surface, all
>new
>hoses and recommissioned blackwater tank.
>I checked the Jabsco manual and all appears to be piped correctly.
>
>The last trip was the last straw. I had to go below every 10 minutes and
>scoop some very disgusting water out of the bowl and pour down sink
>drain
>otherwise it would have overflowed. After a couple of hours of this the
>shine wears off, believe me.
>
>So - my plan is to take out the pump/valve assembly and look for a
>failed
>seal.
>Should the head discharge hose-to-tank have a check valve in it? I think
>not
>because it would become fouled with solids.
>I'm aware of principles of siphoning but short of drawing a diagram I
>don't
>think siphoning is the problem.
>I can't think of anything besides a failed seal.
>
>Help!
>
>
>Steve Hood
>S/V Diamond Girl
>C&C 34
>Lions Head ON
>
>
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
><mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>_______________________________________________
>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
><http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
><mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
><http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
><mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 04:23:47 +0000 (UTC)
From: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List What C&C do you have
Message-ID:
        
<842550414.1070921.1347596627133.javamail.r...@sz0179a.westchester.pa.mail.c
omcast.net>
        
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I second Dwight's request. Please include boat name, model, year, location 
It really adds a lot to know what model boat and where it is sailing when
trying to understand a problem. 
Some techniques don't translate to larger or smaller model boats and some
winter storing boats in Nova Scotia is much different than storing a boat in
Louisiana. 



Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
----- Original Message -----
From: "dwight veinot" <dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca> 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2012 12:33:55 PM 
Subject: Stus-List What C&C do you have 

Alex and others 

I don't know if it violates any rules or what others may feel but I really 
like it when folks sign their emails to this list and include boat name, 
year and model and also location or yacht club. Lots are already doing it 
and hopefully more others will too...helps with getting to know people who 
you may never meet and its nice to know where folks do their sailing...like 
I didn't know until I read Chuck's post today that folks swim in the ocean 
well into October in Atlantic City...I figure it's pretty busy on the water 
around where he is sailing 

thanks 

Dwight Veinot 
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna 
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS 

-----Original Message----- 
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] 
On Behalf Of Alex Giannelia 
Sent: September 12, 2012 1:20 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Reverse Flow on Transom Bilge Outflow (Gary Russell) 

Thanks Gary and good to hear from you again! I will definitely do that, the 
exhaust already does that and someone told me I should put one of those 
vacuum breaks on it, so that is why I thought about it. 

My 6 year "deck restoration" project is slowly coming to an end.... 

ALEX GIANNELIA 

Phone (416) 203-9858 
Fax (416) 203-9843 
Cell (416) 529-0070 

email: a...@airsensing.com 
WEB: www.airsensing.com 




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This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com 
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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 05:07:05 -0400
From: Gary Russell <captnga...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Trouble
Message-ID:
        <CABgkXPKBVZye7=cWVfcY5F0iZb9swBef=nvqnq-tfvd18r2...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi Bob,
     When I first bought Expresso in 1998 she had a small bladder tank for
the head.  Ever since, it has been my mission to build a system that would
work properly; that is, no leaks, no smell and can't syphon when the
uninitiated left a valve in the wrong state.  After many attempts and
changes, over the years, if feel I have accomplished my goal.  I have
received many ideas from others including Peggy Hall (the head mistress)
and probably a few adult beverages along the way.  I'm an engineer, not a
writer, so the fact that you could understand my babbling, speaks more to
your brilliance than mine.  If you ever want additional details on my
system, just let me know.

Gary
S/V Expresso
'75 C&C 35 Mk II

On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 7:29 PM, Helen Abbott <h...@eastlink.ca> wrote:

>  Gary:
> It's been a long day, and maybe, the effects an adult beverage has
> provided me with an induced state of brilliance, so after reading your
> description of your on board 'plumbing system', to avoid unweIcomed
> effluent backup in the head, I  completely understand.....quite brilliant
> really!
>
> Bob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax.N.S.
>
>
> On 2012/09/13 5:13 PM, Gary Russell wrote:
>
> There is another possibility to consider.  In the case of my boat there
> were times when the level of the effluent in the tank was above the bowl
in
> the tank.  In my case the tank is transverse in the boat (head on the port
> side) and when on starboard tack the fitting on the port side of the tank
> is submerged and the effluent pressure goes back to the joker valve.  The
> joker valves are never perfect and they will leak some.  What I did is run
> a pipe through the tank from the head fitting in the tank to the opposite
> side of the tank, so the fitting is on the port side but the pickup is on
> the starboard side.  Then when on starboard tack the effluent sloshes to
> port and the pickup is out of the effluent.  When on port tack, the pickup
> is submerged, but is below the level of the head so it doesn't matter.
>  That solved the problem for me.  Does that description make any sense to
> anybody?
>
>  Gary
>  S/V Expresso
> '75 C&C 35 Mk II
>
> On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 11:25 AM, Wally Bryant <w...@wbryant.com> wrote:
>
>> Yup, it's not just salt, but an extraordinary amount of excess minerals
>> are excreted through the kidneys (think about kidney stones,) and can
build
>> up in the hoses and the tank as well.  For the last couple of years I
have
>> done an annual job of flushing a bunch of fresh water through the system,
>> and then pouring about four gallons of cheap white vinegar down the head.
>>  I make sure some is in the bowl, and that the hoses are full of it.  I
let
>> it sit for a day or two, then flush the whole system with fresh water.
>>  After that job I need to disassemble the pump and lubricate the O-rings
>> with silicone grease.
>>
>> This particular problem sounds like a bad joker valve, though.
>>
>> Wal
>>
>>
>> you wrote:
>>
>>> Salt from urine crystallizes on your joker valve
>>> and the joker valve leaks back. Ideally we are supposed to flush clean
>>> water thru but it never happens on the Great Lakes when you are trying
>>> to conserve holding tank space.
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> s/v Stella Blue
>> www.wbryant.com
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>
>
>
>  --
> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo
Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comcnc-l...@cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
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