To All:

Try Branford Landing, at the top of the Branford River,  Chris (203) 483-6544.  
He has great docks and restaurant, Nellie Green's, http://nelliegreens.com/, 
and usually has room for transients during the week day.  He is very reasonably 
priced.  Going up the river will take about 20 minutes, good depth at low tide 
except at the turn at Bruce & Johnson's, but still passable even for my 7 ft 
draft due to very soft and soupy mud bottom. The river is beautiful with lots 
of wildlife and a great sheltered place to be.  The Shoreline East commuter 
rail station is across the street from the boat yard.

I can also suggest New Haven harbor, a good anchorage with Sage Restaurant in 
front of the anchorage.  Great depth very well marked. 
http://www.sageamerican.com/index.html
 

If you want to talk off line I am at john.mat...@yale.edu or 203-494-6782. 

John Maturo
Ashe, Baltic (C&C) 39

-----Original Message-----
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 12:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 80, Issue 12

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Martec Folding Prop Operation / Yanmar reverse sailing
      (dre...@gmail.com)
   2. Re:  Antifouling removal - chemical strippers (Gary Nylander)
   3. Re:  Antifouling removal - chemical strippers (Indigo)
   4.  On The Way Back From Mystic . . . (Edd Schillay)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2012 09:45:32 -0400
From: dre...@gmail.com
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Martec Folding Prop Operation / Yanmar reverse
        sailing
Message-ID: <9457ab85-8e7b-4168-b198-210447e16...@fsu.edu>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

For years the official Yanmar recommendation was to put the gear in reverse or 
neutral but never forward.  Only recently (2008) did they change their policy.  
These earlier engines had a Hurth transmission.  Once Yanmar changed 
transmissions to Kanzaki and other non-Hurth gear boxes, they now recommend 
neutral only.  So the current statement is applicable to older and newer 
engines, even though the older ones can still be placed in reverse to lock the 
shaft while sailing.  

I have read that many Kanzaki's do not like to come out of reverse after being 
locked. Yanmar used to advise just starting the engine in reverse then shifting 
to neutral.  While Yanmar used to say reverse or freewheeling, now due to the 
reverse locking and damage to the Kanzaki's cones they now make a statement 
which is safe for all(and great for the folding prop manufactures).   



-
Paul E.
s/v Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2012 10:58:14 -0400
From: "Gary Nylander" <gnylan...@atlanticbb.net>
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Antifouling removal - chemical strippers
Message-ID: <40706949B9D8464BB8EAA63BF9D14394@GaryPC>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Peel Away is what I used and fought with.

It works, but is very messy. From Jonathan's note and my experience, you need 
two people to apply it and to remove it. It is messy - you must keep it moist, 
and you need a bunch of different kinds of scrapers to match the contours of 
your boat.

Cover the ground under the boat. Get help. Apply liberally. Cover thoroughly 
with the plastic 'paper'. The tricky part is applying the goo, then putting the 
paper up onto the bottom of the boat (upside down!) and making sure it is 
completely covered. Let it sit the required amount. Remove with plastic 
scrapers (get goo all over yourself in the process). Wear Tyvec. Then it will 
work, the chemical is good and covering it up lets it do its work.

Don't work in 90 degree temperature - it sets too quickly.

Don't try this alone - Jonathan and I concur.

Gary
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Indigo
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 7:58 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Antifouling removal - chemical strippers


  Re chemical peelers. Several winters ago I started to try sanding off 
multiple years of ablative and goodness knows what else. After countless hours 
and lots of sanding disks I gave up and switched to Peel Away. I have to say it 
worked really well but nasty to deal with when removing. I also made the 
mistake of not keeping it moist. I took off too large an area of the plastic 
sheeting and ran out of daylight before removing all the paint / paste. The 
peelaway then set up like concrete!


  I would definitely go the chemical route again. My gel coat was like new. 
Unlike the boats in the yard that had been soda stripped. Their gel coats felt 
slightly rough and invariably small traces of paint were left


  Jonathan
  Indigo - Southport
  Sadly only 20 days before haul-out

  On Sep 6, 2012, at 12:59, "Bob Hickson" <bobhick...@rogers.com> wrote:


    Thanks to everyone for your feedback / suggestions.



    I do not think that a pressure wash (high pressure) will work well on 
antifouling without damage to the gel coat.

    My boats have always been pressure washed in the fall by the yard after 
haul out and this certainly does not remove the bottom paint. Higher pressure 
might work but at the expense of the gel coat.



    I power sanded the bottom of my previous boat (Viking 28) and I am not 
anxious to repeat this experience on the 29. I had to sand the previous boat in 
mid winter because it had VC Tar under the paint and this cannot be sanded 
unless it is cold (it smears and blinds the sandpaper in warmer weather).



    I have a quote of $1,800 to soda blast the 29-2 .... seems pretty high.



    Have a second quote for $600 from a contactor that is going to use a wet 
sand blasting approach with very fine sand. I am a bit leary of this approach 
since I hear that you can do extensive damage to the gel coat / fiberglass by 
using sand. The sand is reportedly too aggressive.



    I am waiting for a quote from a contractor that can do dry ice blasting ... 
this sounds like a great approach since there is no blasting media to clean up. 
Will let you know what his price is.



    So far nobody has said very much about chemical strippers.

    I would like to know a bit more before I make a decision.



    The Franmar website has an interesting video (second link) about using 
their product ?Soy Strip?



    http://www.franmar.com/industries/marine-boating.html

    
http://www.franmar.com/videos/43-product-videos-bottom-boat-antifouling-paint-removal-soy-gel.html



    Was hoping for some firsthand feedback on this product or other chemical 
strippers.



    Looks like a choice between dry ice blasting or Soy Strip at this point





    Best regards,

    Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA

    C&C 29-2 Flying Colours

    (416) 919-2297

    bobhick...@rogers.com



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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2012 11:04:58 -0400
From: "Indigo" <ind...@thethomsons.us>
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Antifouling removal - chemical strippers
Message-ID: <315218FDD95240D8A7FA0D90E4F74E32@JTDesktop>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I would add . purchase GALLONS of cheap white vinegar. You will need this to 
de-activate the goo when (not IF) it gets on your skin, and also to spray the 
boat bottom to de-activate the chemicals before applying barrier coat!

 

Jonathan 

 

  _____  

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Gary Nylander
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 10:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Antifouling removal - chemical strippers

 

Peel Away is what I used and fought with.

 

It works, but is very messy. From Jonathan's note and my experience, you need 
two people to apply it and to remove it. It is messy - you must keep it moist, 
and you need a bunch of different kinds of scrapers to match the contours of 
your boat.

 

Cover the ground under the boat. Get help. Apply liberally. Cover thoroughly 
with the plastic 'paper'. The tricky part is applying the goo, then putting the 
paper up onto the bottom of the boat (upside down!) and making sure it is 
completely covered. Let it sit the required amount. Remove with plastic 
scrapers (get goo all over yourself in the process). Wear Tyvec. Then it will 
work, the chemical is good and covering it up lets it do its work.

 

Don't work in 90 degree temperature - it sets too quickly.

 

Don't try this alone - Jonathan and I concur.

 

Gary

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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2012 11:42:08 -0400
From: Edd Schillay <e...@schillay.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List On The Way Back From Mystic . . .
Message-ID: <78908110-7427-4b39-81e1-cb0c9b0a7...@schillay.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Listers, 

        In planning our trip to the Mystic Rendezvous (17 boats -- wow!), I'm 
now looking for a good spot to go to somewhere midway between Clinton CT and 
City Island for the Monday night after. Pequot YC's restaurant is closed for 
the evening and it's a bit of a long walk to town. Same is true for Black Rock 
YC. 

        Looking for someplace nice, slip or mooring, easy in and easy out, and 
with dinner choices either on site or very close by.

        Any suggestions??

        See you in a week and change . . . 

        
        All the best,

        Edd


        Edd M. Schillay
        Starship Enterprise
        C&C 37/40+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
        City Island, NY 
        Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website





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End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 80, Issue 12
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