I thought the preferred way was to add the models at the top of the
controller:

var $uses = array('Product', 'Category');

But investigating briefly, it seems like there is a performance hit
for this nice syntax - I found the following post at nabble:

>Don't use $uses, ever. It is terrible for performance.
>
>Always access models through their associations, ie. $this->model1- 
>>model2->find();
>
>If you don't have any associations to the model you want, use the
>following before accessing your model:
>
>App::import('Model', 'Product');
>$tmpProduct = new Product();
>$tmpProduct->find();

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