I'm a happy user of elpy (https://github.com/jorgenschaefer/elpy)  in
emacs for all python related things. It includes some popular
extensions for code-completion (Jedi/Rope backends), Code navigation
etc. It should be available in marmalade/MELPA repositories as well.
Also I heard ein (https://github.com/tkf/emacs-ipython-notebook) is
good if you orient towards matplotlib/numpy and the like (not used
much, personally though)

Do give it a try, if you're still using emacs.

> In a different era I used cscope and etags for browing massive C/C++ code
> bases

For C/C++ I'm still using etags. (though not a heavy user and the
project is not huge). As an aside, I do use projectile-mode
(https://github.com/bbatsov/projectile)  for managing projects, which
has some neat settings to regenerate etags/ build etc. (There is also
the CEDET set of tools for cc-mode languages (mostly), but I haven't
tried/spent much time on configuring that)

Happy Hacking

-Abhishek
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